Surgères

September 23, 2019

The first day of fall brought much needed rains to the dry Charente.

After farewells to Dominique and a bakery stop, I was on my way a few minutes before ten. Unlike yesterday where the rains never came, it looked as if I might get a little wet today. There was a brisk wind from the southwest, and I rode very purposefully across the bridge and through La Rochelle before stopping for my “elevenes” snack along the Canal Marans à La Rochelle. Upon leaving the city, I was soon back in the flat farmlands of Charente Maritime. Most of the fields had been harvested, and on this grey day the only spots of color were Rose trémière blowing along the roadbeds. I enjoyed some good stretches of tailwinds, but it was the cross winds across the open landscape that were most memorable.

Break for croissant on the Canal Marans à La Rochelle

Back in the flat farmlands of Charente Maritime

Rose trémière blowing along the roadbeds offered a bright spot of color on this grey day

Dark clouds were approaching from behind, and I snuck into a bus shelter in Fontpatour to munch a bit on my sandwich while I had the chance. I was hoping the storm would track farther north, but soon after leaving Fontpatour I felt sprinkles – it was hard to distinguish whether they were coming from above or swept horizontally by the wind. A stand of trees provided a nice windbreak for donning my rain jacket, putting away my phone and camera, and turning on my lights. I still was thinking light rainfall, but a slashing downpour began as I was trying to navigate through Bouhet. I found shelter from the driving rain in the corner of some courtyard and put on the rest of my raingear, except my pants. It was not long before the rain eased a bit and I sallied forth to face the elements. The rest of the day was my hoped-for light intermittent rain, with decreasing winds.

At this point, I may need to reassess my personal forecast for light and intermittent rain showers

Bus shelter for a few bites of sandwich before the downpour begins

The mist covered fields in the distance almost look like a far-off cityscape

I'm stumped as to what this crop is - some kind of root crop?

Close up for interested and/or knowledgeable readers

I arrived in Surgères about three, but check-in at my Chambre d’Hôte was not until five. After texting the proprietor to see if my room might be ready early, I found a Tabac around the corner for an espresso and the rest of my sandwich. I chatted a bit with an English couple looking to buy a rather large house in the area – I continue to be amazed by all the Brits who own houses in the Charente. I was getting a bit chilled so I put on my puffy jacket and had a a second espresso before getting up and wandering a bit around this rather nondescript town. Patrick finally met me at 4:30 and I was ushered inside a pretty fabulous little inn. I’m all warm and cozy now, and think I might just skip dinner – after all, it is Monday and dining options are largely limited to pizza and kabobs. We’ll see…

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Today's ride: 38 miles (61 km)
Total: 452 miles (727 km)

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