September 19, 2019
Ile de Ré
What a day – a day filled with colors. The colors of the sky, sea, boats, and buildings. And a day of wind. It was marvelous!
I stopped by the market on the way out of Rochefort, bade farewell to the frigate L’Hermione, and headed to the ocean on La Vélodysséé. There was a stiff breeze of ~22 mph out of the northeast – with headwinds and crosswinds dominating the day. The flat terrain and wind was quite familiar to me, a cyclist based in Iowa where one never sets out for a ride without first checking the wind speed and direction. I put my head down, found the proper gear, and was pleasantly surprised when a turn in the road resulted in a brief tail wind.
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The route followed the Charente River for about 6 miles before turning inland, where it then paralleled some fairly busy roads. I was reminded of Ask Dr. Science, a daily NPR radio sketch that was produced by a comedy group, Duck's Breath Mystery Theater, out of Iowa City. In response to a listener’s question “What is a frontage road,” Dr. Science replied that it is a road named after the famous French explorer Pierre Frontage, who followed Louis and Clark across America, but always slower and a little to the side. I enjoyed cycling the frontage roads of La Vélodysséé, exceedingly glad not to be on a narrow shoulder as cars and trucks whizzed past me.
As I was ruminating about the fictional Pierre Frontage and genuine French explorers, the route took two quick turns to the left and suddenly I was at the ocean! Cycling past the seaside villages of Les Boucholeurs, Chatelaillon-Plage, Angoulins, and Les Minimes was exhilarating and heightened all my senses. Walking along the quai at Les Boucholeurs, I was enchanted by varied light and color - the sun sparkling on the water and the washed-out pastels of seaside homes. La Rochelle burst forth in technicolor – and several times I was forced to pause and try to take it all in. Alas, I was just passing through on my way to Ile de Ré. However, the vibrancy of the La Rochelle is etched in my soul and I am certain that one day I will return to more fully enjoy this city.
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As I noted in my earlier journal, Melo Vélo Meanderings, I am not a fan of bridges. Therefore, I was a bit apprehensive about crossing the 1.8 mile bridge to the island of Ile de Ré. Especially as it was a quite windy day. To my relief, there was a separated bike lane of ample width and sufficiently high sides. I must admit that when passing cyclists coming toward me from the opposite direction, I tensed up and avoided all eye contact. I had booked three nights at an Airbnb in Sainte-Marie, a quieter village located toward the southeast end of the island. My plan was to spend some time exploring the island, walking on the beach, and getting a little rest. My hostess Dominique showed me around the apartment, which was located on the first floor of her house. She then took me on a path through the vineyards to the beach. I’d been here for only two hours, yet I was certain that heeding the call of the sea, and the advice of others, was one of the best decisions of the tour to date.
Today's ride: 42 miles (68 km)
Total: 359 miles (578 km)
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