Looking out my window early this morning it seemed as if the weather could go either way – sunshine and blue skies, or dark clouds and rain. The prediction was for rain in the afternoon, so once again I wanted an early start. Before heading out at 9 am, I sent a message to the Chambre d’Hote in Brantôme to see if I might check-in early. Traveling on small roads, the landscape was similar to yesterday, but the rolling hills became a bit higher and steeper as I moved east. Just past Saint-Séverin, I left the Charente and entered the Dordogne, where it promptly began to rain. I sought shelter under the roof of a roadside building that, to my surprise, was a small country restaurant. Even more amazing – it was open! Donning rain gear and downing an espresso, I checked my email and learned that I had an early check window between 1-2 pm. That seemed achievable, as long as I didn’t dawdle about.
The rain ceased, but the sky still threatened. I rolled up and down the hills, so intent on reaching Brantôme that I passed through Verteillac without stopping for a little snack and rest break. Eventually realizing I needed some type food and a short rest, I parked Vivien George at the side of a farmhouse and had my morning croissant standing up. After the last hill, the route dipped down to the Dronne, crossing the river near Bourdeilles before heading north along the river. My head was spinning as I entered through the “gates” of Brantôme, passing the magnificent Abbey, and marveling at this town built on an island in the river. However, I was intent on reaching my final destination. I arrived at the Chambre d’Hote at 1:15, got clean and dry and was lunching on cheese and bread in my room as the rains started up again. I spent the afternoon resting and journaling, finally venturing out to explore this rather unique village during the hour before dinner.
Entering Brantôme through the Tour Saint-Roch and Pavillion Renaissance. These formed a portion of the defenses of the Brantôme Abbey, which is straight ahead
The most dominant and historically significant feature of Brantôme is the Benedictine Abbey of Brantôme, originally built my monks who lived in the many caves adjacent to the abbey. Founded in 769 by Charlemagne, the abbey is said to have contained relics of Saint Sicaire, one of the Innocent Saints. The presence of relics attracted pilgrims, and today the abbey lies on one of the pilgrim routes to Santiago de Compostela. The town itself is located primarily on an island encircled by the Dronne River. This setting - replete with botanical gardens, caves, and limestone cliffs - is quite extraordinary. There were relatively few tourists strolling about on this damp cool night in late September, adding to my appreciation of a truly charming and historic village.
Today's ride: 34 miles (55 km) Total: 583 miles (938 km)
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Scott AndersonWhat a lovely town Brantôme is! With its canals it reminds me a bit of Colmar. We hope to be in this region next fall and will have to be sure to add it to the list. Reply to this comment 4 years ago
