To Ragusa: Sicilian Baroque - Our tour of Sicily - CycleBlaze

May 6, 2016

To Ragusa: Sicilian Baroque

GPS route

Here is a day that completely got away from me. I forgot at the time that I hadn't completed the narrative. Now, three weeks later and with my old-brain memory, I don't have a lot to add that you can't see from the photographs below. There is a bit to add though.

First off, the day began with a continuation of last night's arrival, in which we push our bikes several blocks up to the B&B. It lies about halfway up the hill and we are leaving out the top end, so this morning began by continuing the uphill push a few more blocks until we reached ground meeting our specifications for rideability.

We are leaving town in this direction because we decided to have a look at the town's most important site - the ruins of the old city of Akrai, which are decaying at the top of the hill, overlooking the surrounding countryside. Once up there though, we didn't hang around for much more than to admire the views. It takes quie a bit of imagination to envision the ancient city from the scattered stone remains strewn across the hilltop; and the most noted remains, the ancient theatre, weren't really viewable because a construction project had most of it under wraps. After visiting Segesta, Selinunte and Agrigento in the previous two weeks, we've probably just gotten too spoiled and hard to impress.

Moving on, the ride to Ragusa was delightful, and one of my favorites of the tour so far. It began in the Hyblaean mountains still, with several more miles of arid, rocky fields defined by stone walls that looked like they'd been around for a millennium. Afterwards we enjoyed a long, fairly gradual descent of about two thousand feet, finally bottoming out on the valley floor before gradually climbing out the other side and regaining it all back.

Oh, wait. I see that all of this is in the captions already. I guess I have nothing to add after all. Use this as a lesson in why it's better to journal as you go.

Total elevation gain: today, 3,200'; for the tour, 44,500'.

Palzzolo Acreide
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The Akrai Greek theater, Palazzolo Acreide
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Biking along the high plateau of the Hyblaean Mountains, south of Palazzolo Acreide.
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The roads and meadows here are all demarcated by limestone walls that look like they could have been here for a thousand years.
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In the Hyblaean Mountains
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At the edge of the high plateau. It's about a 1500 foot drop to the valley floor.
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Face off at the bend
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Dropping to the valley floor, passing through a succession almond, citrus and olive orchards - the crops changed continuously as we lost elevation.
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Somewhere near Castellucio
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The church of Santa Maria dell'Istra, Ragusa
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Ragusa is physically two different towns, separated by a ravine. This is the lowerer town, Ragusa Ibla, The photo is taken from the edge of the upper town, Ragusa Superiore, along the staircase that connects them.
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Descending the stairs to the lower town, Ragusa Ibla
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Roof tiles, Ragusa
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Detail of a silk tapestry, Ragusa
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Decorated entablature, Church of San Giorgio.
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Balconies supported by grotesque masks are a characteristic baroque feature.
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The Church of Anime Sante deal Purgatrio, Ragusa Ibla
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In the Purgatorio Church, Ragusa Ibla
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With Ultan and Deborah, a congenial couple we met at one of the palaces.
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Excellent: spada with cherry tomatoes and olives. We were one of three couples in this restaurant, during the American Shift - we all entered at 7:30 when it opened, because it was cold outside and none of the other restaurants were open yet. The normal eaters weren't due until 9 or so.
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The Duomo of the Church of San Giorgio, Ragusa Ibla
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Grillwork and steps of the Church of San Giogio, Ragusa Ibla
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Today's ride: 36 miles (58 km)
Total: 616 miles (991 km)

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