To Cefalu: Mount Etna awakens

May 17, 2016

The farm hotel we're staying at here has a few quirks. One is that there are no water glasses in the room, and in the restaurant only bottled water is served with breakfast, upon request. It makes us suspicious that possibly the tap water is non potable here.

Another is that there is internet service, but only in the restaurant - a few buildings away from our room. I'm an early riser and breakfast isn't served until 8:30, so I walked over to the still-closed restaurant, found a sunny spot along the wall outside it where I could get a weak signal, and caught up on the journal a bit.

Another quirk was breakfast itself. It was quite meager, which is one thing - but the offerings were peculiar. For example, there was no fruit, no bread, no cheese or meat - primarily just coffee and sweet breads. Oddly though, there was an assortment of jams and spreads - but nothing to spread them on.

It's a great location though, high above the town. Our room has a fine view of Mount Etna far to the east. As we pack up to depart we are excited to see a small but unmistakable plume rising up from its summit.

I have some company while I'm sitting outside the restaurant waiting for it to open. A nice spot to sit and wait in the sun, but the breakfast itself was a bit odd.

Mount Etna shows signs of life this morning.

Our route this morning continues along SS120 for a few miles, passing through the beautiful ridgetop village Sperlinga. It is obviously worth a stop to look around but we mostly just bike past. There have been so many spots like this on the tour - it doesn't feel like we're doing justice to them, but you can't stop in everywhere - there is just too much to see in one pass through.

Sperlinga, designated as one of the most beautiful villages in Italy

In Sperlinga. We were standing here taking in the views when a guy pulls up in his car, says he's a cyclist too, and offers to take our photo together.

A bit past Sperlinga we finally break away from the incredible SS120 onto the smaller, even quieter SS60 that takes us north toward the coast. This road is wonderful too. At some point along here we are stopped to take in a view when I see that Rachael has broken out crying, overwhelmed by the whole experience ot the last three days. It really is almost too much to believe.

The ride is spectacular all the way to the coast. Our road drops into the narrow Pollina valley, with the Madonie mountains rising up above the other bank. Along the way we are halted first by a large sheep drive crossing the road, and then later by a small stampede of cows and goats driven by a drover on horseback.

Looking across the Pollina River valley to the Madonie mountains

The Pollina River valley, along the eastern edge of the Madonie

We arrive at the coast about eight miles east of Cefalu. The final miles of the day are a pretty ride along the coast, interrupted by a pair of interminable stops to wait for three tiny passenger trains to zip past. We arrive in Cefalu about six, check in to our seaside hotel - the only real resort hotel of the tour - and enjoy a walk along the promenade and stroll through town until the dinner hour.

Three straight days of absolutely perfect cycling in ideal weather. Unbelievable.

Our first view of the rock of Cefalu. The town is on the other side of the peninsula.

Rachael and I got separated when I fell behind a bit and got stopped waiting for the train. The gate stays down an amazingly long time - about two minutes - even though the small passenger car whizzed by in seconds. I soon passed the train when it stopped at a station, caught up with Rachael. Almost immediately we were stopped again, at a different crossing. This time we waited a full six minutes for the first train and a different one traveling the other direction. A new personal record - stopped for three trains in only a mile!

The seaside promenade at Cefalu was draped with beach ware and blankets for sale.

Cefalu's Norman cathedral. It is closed this evening, so we enjoyed looking at it in the evening light and will visit again in the morning.

Fortifications crown the massive rock at Cefalu. Oh, and the moon is nearly full again.

Total elevation gain: today, 2,800'; for the tour, 83,000'.

Today's ride: 53 miles (85 km)
Total: 1,100 miles (1,770 km)

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