Sciacca to Realmonte

March 25, 2023

Our B&B in Sciacca was very nicely finished and would have been great for a longer stay.

The interior stairs to the top floor breakfast room, lounge, and terrace were beautifully done in Sciacca style.

The view from the terrace over the fishing harbour. I meant to get up early to see the parade of fishing boats heading out, but for some reason I didn’t.

We left Sciacca on the SIBIT cycling route and came almost immediately to a stop. Another bridge closed! We were of course at the bottom of a descent and not pleased at the idea of riding back up, but a quick check showed no other way. Just as we were about to give up and turn around, Al spotted a cyclist coming towards us across the closed bridge. And he had several friends. They showed us how to get around the barrier and assured us it was fine. Great!

How Italians deal with (some) road closures

The first part of the ride today wasn’t particularly photogenic and included a stretch on a busy highway (busier that our usual routes). We stopped in Ribera (the city of oranges) to eat the local mandarins we’d bought from a fruit-and-veg truck as we left Sciacca, sitting on a bench outside a bike shop. We didn’t go in but it looked like a decent shop.

After Ribera, our route followed smaller, quieter roads and the views became more interesting.

Remains of a bridge across Fiume Platano, near Cattolica Eraclea. I want to look up more info about the old bridge when I get home.

Our route was on an old highway, very quiet thanks to the nearby autoroute.

The work seemed to be extension of the tunnel portals.

We would past a WWF facility, another thing to look up later. Then over the autoroute and onto a rolling road through rocky outcrops.

Our route turned right through that saddle, climbing steeply.

Al checked our location while he waited for me to catch my breath and admire the view.

Eventually we could see the headland that is Scala dei Turchi on the other side.

Our accommodation here was chosen because of its location (within an easy walk to Scala dei Turchi) and its price (though one of our most expensive nights, about the lowest I could find in the area). The room itself was rather sad. Small, with barely enough water pressure to take a shower, and not potable water to boot! But the hosts were very welcoming and friendly (and potable water was provided). The other disappointment was that the Scala dei Turchi were closed for stabilization work. I’d read other cyclists’ journals and seen comments of open/closed/partially open, so I knew it was a possibility that they’d be closed, but when I looked on the official website later, it states most specifically that “In questo momento il sito non risulta chiuso al pubblico” which translates to “At this time the site is not closed to the public.” Oh well. A few photos anyway:

I’m including this cropped not-very-good photo because it’s the only one I took that shows the fence, which extended up the cliff and out into the water.

Is the different rock on top the source of the problem?

Perhaps. Great efforts are being make to hold it in place.

We climbed back up to the road and enjoyed beers with a view at a roadside bar. The bar was at street level but the terrace was a couple of flights up so orders were placed in an external dumbwaiter and winched up by an electric motor.

The beer was local but the glass wasn’t.

For dinner, our hosts strongly suggested a restaurant called Baio in Lido Rossello, 3 km up the road to the west. I’m not sure if they thought it was the best or merely the best of the close options. We did see one of them picking up takeout pizzas there as we were finishing our meal. Although it was empty when we came in at 7:30 (opening time), it was packed when we left. We didn’t think the food was particularly special, but it was certainly okay.

Pasta and salad, Ristorante Baio, Lido Rossello.

Back on the bikes, layers and lights on, for the short ride back to our room.

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Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 423 km (263 miles)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	3

Rachael AndersonSorry to hear the Turkish steps were closed but you got some great photos of the area!
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1 year ago

Margie AndersonYour trip here had me curious about Scala dei Turchi. Have researched found translation to Turkish Steps. Beautiful white formation. Thanks! M.
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1 year ago

Jacquie GaudetTo Margie AndersonIt’s the reason for the tourism development in the area. Most people come my car from Agricento or further and apparently the large parking lots are full before 9 on summer mornings.
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1 year ago