Kwidzyn to Malbork - The Bartletts Bike the Baltics - CycleBlaze

June 1, 2019

Kwidzyn to Malbork

Well, as so often has happened on this trip, we arrived at our destination looking like drowned rats seeking refuge. Our hotel was hosting a fancy event and we must have been a sorry sight. By mistake we walked in to the building with the restaurant and were quickly ushered to the right place, the building next door. Hotel Maxim will be our shelter for the night.

An interesting tidbit about storks in Poland. The expression goes: that every fourth stork in Europe is Polish, and that is because 1/4 of the 325,000 storks who migrate from Africa to Europe every year, come to Poland.  So it is true, we are seeing more storks than usual.  Some days when I would look at our photos from the day , I would wonder if we were a bit obsessed!

We have found Poland to be so relaxed about bike storage. Even the nicest places have not hesitated to give Seavo a place of honour in their dining room, or wherever we like. This hotel insisted that we take Seavo down a winding stair to the basement and around acorner to a room at the end of the hall. It is theoretically doable but we don’t want to put ourselves or Seavo through this. Plus we are wet and tired. After much grimacing, discussion and unhappy looks, the woman allowed us to put Seavo in the hall by our room. Yeah
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The hotel is very nice, but we didn’t feel that it offered good value. Perhaps their energies are directed more toward the many events they host. This is our first experience at a hotel in a Poland in which the staff and owner are unfriendly and lacking in the warm hospitality we have become accustomed to here.
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This remarkable church which is part of the castle dates from the 14th century and was built by the Teutonic Order. It is a typical Gothic red brick structure.
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The Castle is quite impressive and features the unusual placement of two towers at the south end.
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It is easy to imagine this Castle back in the 13th century, in its strategic position overlooking the countryside. So many hand made bricks in these medieval structures. The massive scale of building a castle such as this is mind boggling.
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Wow. We have encountered fellow touring cyclists and on a tandem too. What are the odds? Bart and Hannika are from the Netherlands and are doing part of the R1 route through Poland and back to Berlin. It was great sharing ideas and stories with a couple who also ride what is probably seen as a strange looking bike. We loved their Santos tandem.
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Along the route by the Wistula River and the tributary Nogat River at the locks, we met a gregarious and fun group from Kwizdyn and Marlbork out for a ride. As always, the bike was a source of much curiosity and questions.
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This woman really wanted to try Seavo.
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A group photo with this happy group of friends out for a ride. Even Buster has turned around to check out what all the laughing is about.
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The weather forecast is for good weather today, but it feels like a storm is brewing. It is a humid day.
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Bart had told us about the migration of Dutch Mennonites to this area. We can see this evidence in farms we pass. As well, today, young families from the Netherlands are choosing this area of Poland to come and farm, both for the lower cost of land and fewer regulations.
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We have left the R1 as it doesn’t go to Marlbork. We are now following both the Wistula River route (which the R1 has shared for some time) and Eurovelo9.
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Time for a coffee break and cookies by the river.
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Once again, we can see the might Wistula is very high. It is a beautiful river to ride alongside.
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Barry is happiest when good coffee is available and also when he has his Aeropress to make some.
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The only downside of our ride on the road by the river is that the surface is really bad. The frequent potholes look menacing, but the real problem comes from continual bumps over the patching of potholes. Barry takes the small dirt shoulder on the side when he can, but generally we have to be on the road. It astounds us how fast the cars go on this narrow road and bumpy road. Every few km, a sign appears warning of bumps for the next 2 km. We think that one sign for the route would cover it.
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Like the approach to Chelmno with a view of the medieval buildings from a distance, we also enjoyed the anticipation of Marlbork with a stunning skyline. Crossing the bridge over the Nogat  River gives a spectacular view of the impressive Marlbork Castle along the river. We will visit the castle tomorrow.

We have  been lucky  with the weather today as we were able to make it to our hotel before a big storm hit. The humidity had been gathering all day and we were able to watch a heavy electrical storm and downpour from our room. A successful end to a fun day riding along the Wistula River.

Today's ride: 56 km (35 miles)
Total: 1,968 km (1,222 miles)

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