A Day in Skagen (August 17, 2023)

August 17, 2023

We are at the Brondrums Hotel. This was a random choice I found off Booking.com and it's an unexpectedly lovely, historical hotel. (Not to mention it was only around 150 USD, which is less than what we spent for each of our lamer accommodation experiences!) We are in the Admiral’s Garden Annex which is 200 meters from the main hotel, which sucks if you want a beer (David) but it’s pretty nice otherwise. We had booked dinner there last night and it was a rare occasion where we felt awkward being underdressed. We are almost always underdressed (a curse of cycle touring) but rarely feel uncomfortable about it. Danes however, dress especially elegantly and the restaurant turned out to be fancier than we expected. Our presence definitely pulled down the dressy level!

We split up for the morning because Jill was on a mission to do some clothes shopping for our grandson. It’s late enough in our trip we decided we could haul some extra items. The walk through town was nice- early enough in the day so there weren’t too many crowds. Skagen is an old Danish artist colony, and it feels that way. Lots of galleries and shops, but the beach next to the town is used for industrial purposes, mostly herring fishing. I walked through there and that part is not scenic and smelled like fish! The nice beach is north of Skagen and I walked out there and checked out the Skagen Bunker Museum- another bit of the WW2 era Atlantic Wall. The gun emplacements are used to sunbathe.

Skagen is on the Danish Cycle Route 1 and there were plenty of cycling tent campers at this very nice looking campground right by the beach. If the weather was this nice all the time, it would be very appealing to be there camping!

A bascule which was used prior to the lighthouse. Flammable material was set on fire in the basket and lifted up to warn ships of shoreline's proximity.

Dave went on his own adventure and learned a bit more about Skagen.

(Dave here: I decided to ride my bike around town and stumbled upon an attractive windmill so I stopped to grab a shot of it. I then saw a sign for the Coastal Museum which memorializes Skagen's history which is inextricably tied to the sea--seas, actually, as it is perched at the northernmost point of Denmark with the North Sea to the west and the Kattegatt Sea to the east. Turns out the windmill is part of the museum's outdoor exhibit which has several representative buildings from Skagen's early history. There were several Skagen houses from three different architectural periods defined by different colours: The Black period (until approximately 1875 where the outside of the houses were covered in pitch), the Yellow period (approximately 1875-1907, yellow clapboard siding) and the Red period (from 1907, when buildings were made from red brick). Apart from the historical houses you can also see special exhibitions on fishing, maritime rescue service and seafaring. The exhibitions provide an introduction to the interesting history of Skagen and to the dramatic life by the coast.

I also rode my bike out towards the very northern tip of Denmark, and enjoyed a beautiful summer day on the beach for the final 2 km with many others who had the same idea.)

The Maritime exhibition highlighted the extraordinary efforts the town's citizens expended in rescuing grounded ships. In addition to fishing, a big part of the town's revenues came from salvaging wrecks.

Dogs are on leash and well behaved, even in the surf.

He also decided to try the standard hot dog sausage thing for lunch that is the traditional fast food in Denmark. Here he is:

Dave was doggedly determined to down a dog in Denmark!

We had booked a table at a French bistro place - Ruth’s - about 5 km away in another little beach town and the ride out and back was fun and the dinner even more fun. Great French food and a nice change of pace. In Scandinavia everyone brings their kids - even to very nice places- and we are constantly impressed by how well- behaved the kids are.

Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 1,553 km (964 miles)

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