Day 12 — South San Juan Island Loop - Ferry Good Times: Cycling the Salish Sea

June 9, 2025

Day 12 — South San Juan Island Loop

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Today’s ride is a 27-mile loop with approx. 2200 feet of climbing around the south end of the island. Because it’s been so warm, we decided last night to leave a little earlier. But I slept hard, and I when wake this morning, the very idea of food turns me off. I’m not a morning person, plain and simple. So I decide to stay at the hotel while the others go for breakfast. I take my coffee and knitting and sit on the porch swing in the garden to enjoy the morning sun and some quiet time while I gradually wake up.

It’s the right thing to do, and I’m feeling more awake by the time Rich, Gen, and Jim return from breakfast. I’m also pretty much ready to ride.

Rich finds me knitting on the porch swing.

It’s a gorgeous morning — sunny and warm, but with a light breeze. We turn down Second, ride up Spring street, turn onto Douglas Ave, and then Cattle Point Rd, heading due south. The views here are mostly open, grassy fields. I stop to take a picture and put my foot down on what I think is a grassy shoulder, but which is actually a ditch. Over I go. Unhurt, but with dignity a little bruised, Rich helps me right my bike and on we go.

We then turn west toward False Bay, which, according to Google, “has earned its name because the bay is empty of water during most low tides, exposing a vast area of sand bars, mud flats, tidal channels and tide pools, as well as isolated boulders and patches of rocky shoreline. Given the deceptive shallowness of the bay, boats are not uncommonly stranded by a receding tide.” — as you can see from the picture below.

We follow the edge of False Bay and then travel straight west to the true coast overlooking the Salish Sea. The vistas are fantastic as we ride up the shoreline. The northern tip of our southern loop ride takes us to Mitchell Bay, and Snug Harbor resort. As we leave the main road toward the resort, we are climbing, and the route shows this portion of the ride as an out-and-back. Jim doesn’t remember why this is included on the route and thinks maybe it’s a mistake. I’m seeing signs for the resort and say, “let’s go check it out.” There could be restrooms there after all. 😉

There’s a very steep decline down to the bay. So steep that if I were not riding an e-bike, I’d think twice before riding down it, knowing I’d have to come back up again. But the e-bike takes the pain and hesitation out of such steep climbs, and so we all happily enjoy the free fall down to the resort.

Not only are there restrooms, there’s a great little coffee shop with pastries and yogurt parfait. I’m finally feeling hungry enough to eat, so I get an iced coffee and a parfait. We settle into some Adirondack chairs in the shade and enjoy the view of the bay and the marina while we eat.

Gen, riding downhill as the vista opens to the sea.

Looking out across the Strait toward Vancouver Island (I think).

Saw this sign going into Snug Harbor resort.

Relaxing with coffee and snacks at Snug Harbor.

The climb back up from the resort is every bit as steep as I thought — ranging from 12-15% grade. I’m glad I have a motor to assist, because it’s still work. I’m even using Turbo mode for the first time.

We’re more than halfway through the loop at this point and ride southeast to end up back home in Friday Harbor again. We have the entire afternoon free, which is nice and we enjoy it resting or in the garden (I’m back on the swing knitting again).

We also need to take care of laundry. There are no laundry facilities here, but the exceedingly kind manager (I’m sorry, I don’t know her name) has offered to do our laundry for us, including hanging our bicycle clothing on a rack to dry and then returning everything to us tomorrow. I’ve never had anyone do my laundry for me before and so it feels awkward as I hand her our laundry bag. I have to say, everything here has been above and beyond, as they seem to anticipate our every need and accommodate us.

Dinner is at the restaurant at Harbor House, again overlooking the marina and ferry terminal. It’s so beautiful here. Dinner is very good, if pricey (a lot like dining in Napa). Everything on this island is beautiful. I’m sure I’m a little in love with it because we have had such exceptional weather. As Gen and I walk back to the hotel from the restaurant, we talk about what it would be like to live here.

Today has been an absolutely perfect day and one to be remembered in gratitude for life.

The four of us at the Harbor House restaurant.

This sheriff’s vehicle with grass growing under it can be seen on 2nd avenue in Friday Harbor, directly across from the sheriff’s department building. Gen and I speculated about why it’s there. I did a google search and came up with nothing. I’ll have to remember to ask a local about it.

Today’s ride:

Today's ride: 27 miles (43 km)
Total: 266 miles (428 km)

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