September 23, 2022
Day 23: Moustiers Sté Marie to Castellane
We were ready for the big day. The Garmin forecasts 7 climbs, but we’ve ridden this road before in the opposite direction so we have some idea of what to expect. At breakfast when we talked with our hosts, they expressed surprise that we would consider riding on the rive gauche. They felt the other side was better. The other side is the main road, and yes it probably had better views of the Gorges du Verdon but we preferred the quieter road that is an actual bicycle route.
After saying our goodbyes, we rolled down to the Lac de Sainte-Croix and crossed the bridge to begin the first climb of the day.
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Part way up the climb, we came to the village of Aiguines where we bought today’s picnic lunch. The chateau here has unique roof tiling on its four corner turrets.
It’s been 15 years since we’ve been here, but it looks the same in many ways and yet improved upon, as well.
That’s the main road along the canyon wall. We can actually see the view points and all the vehicles over there.
We encountered a group of cyclists from Aspen on this stretch. They were being followed by a van pulling a bicycle trailer and a second van pulling their luggage trailer.
Even though we had our picnic lunch on the tandem, I popped into this restaurant to see if they still served omelets. I explained to the ancient proprietor that we had eaten an omelet on the terrace overlooking the gorge 15 years ago and we wanted to enjoy the experience again (in my best French - that was hard!). He checked with the chef to see if he’d make us an omelet. Sadly, no luck. So, we continued up the road to find the perfect picnic site.
We stopped just before the tunnel for our picnic.
At a scenic overlooking just before the tunnels we enjoyed our picnic of fougasse and lemon cake and apricot tart.
But I can only imagine water gushing through here! Maybe it will after tomorrow’s rain storm.
Just another 5 kilometers and the main climbs of the day will be done.
Our host at breakfast suggested a shortcut that would’ve taken us through this village of Trigance. When we came around the corner and Trigance came into view, I remembered that we rode through it in 2007 on market day. I bought a Provençal table cloth at the market that we still use today. I’ve always wondered what village I had purchased it in … there it was!
The Garmin was now telling us Climb #6 of the day was about to begin with an average of 7%. Our legs are tired, but bring it on.
Our Garmins registered 37% gradient - man are we strong!!! At this point we love those deceiving climbs!
Today’s ride was a tough but rewarding one. It was great finishing the day along the river as we rode into Castellane.
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We’re staying in the Hotel du Commerce and enjoying the comfort.
Today's ride: 80 km (50 miles)
Total: 1,844 km (1,145 miles)
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