Déjà vu

June 7, 2025

...that tree looks familiar...

I woke at 0100. And 0300. And then finally at 0600. Although the weather hadn't been getting any brighter, it had definitely been getting warmer, and muggier. And monks seemingly don't do air conditioning. So sleep was evasive.

Heading down for breakfast at 0730, I met a number of fellow residents, all of whom were talking in appropriately hushed tones, while Beyonce played incongruously in the background. I did what I could to get some calories on board: a scan of the map had confirmed that this was likely to be a fairly rural day, and I'd hand picked locations for probable refuelling. I hadn't quite bargained on what a rural day it was to be.

Retrieving Raven from her suite at the base of staircase 'c', I clipped in and made my way through the southern half of Bordeaux, and its suburbs. I enjoy city riding, oddly: there's lots to stay aware of, and things to see, and the miles pass quickly. Before long we'd done 6 miles and were heading into the country, and a forested area which appeared on my route planner as a national park.

Subsequent research reveals this to be the Landes forest, the largest man-made woodland in western Europe, 90% of which is constituted of exactly the same type of pine tree. Scenic variation is provided by occasional fire breaks.

So honestly, short blog today, because there wasn't much to see or report. And I apologise for talking mostly about food. The view below is genuinely what I saw for about 85 unrelenting miles. The satnav would tell me that my next cue was due in 8 miles, and I'd wait excitedly for a roundabout or something to appear. And then there'd be a further seven miles, before I had to avoid a layby. No ups, no downs. Beautiful riding, but perhaps not for nigh on six hours. On the plus side, those trees were extremely effective at keeping a strong west wind at bay.

It did make me smile when at one point the satnav wanted to divert me off the road onto what looked like a forest track. I wasn't overly keen on the idea, but it kept insisting, and when I checked the map, I could see that the track was actually going to peel away further left and take me to a different (yet identical) road. So I thought I'd better comply. And having deserted the smooth, traffic-free road, I found myself on a smooth metalled cycle path, running right through a three mile section of forest. No idea why they felt the need to build it, but it's lovely that the country invests in bike infrastructure!

I'm not really sure I can lay claim to riding 85 miles today. I feel like I just rode this one mile, 85 times. And then some city bits.

Coffee stop at Saint Magne, about 20-25 miles in. It was earlier than I'd planned, but I've learned not to pass on an open bakery, particularly when it has a terrace with seats. And look: flan! A solid 8/10... or perhaps a wobbly 8/10. Could be my last one...

Lunch was purchased at the settlement of Pissos, about 40 miles in. I was rushing to get there by 12, just in case the bakers closed and left me with no other options (bakery number one not having had sandwiches). The ride felt a bit like a spin class. I made it, and discovered a new french word. "Un bun." Instead of using their normal bread, they'd made sandwiches with soft round rolls, one of which I squidged into my frame bag, hoping that tuna didn't leak everywhere.

At last, a clearing! The hamlet of Solferino offered a break in the trees, and a couple of roadside seats, so Raven and I stopped for lunch around 1330. No bakery in Solferino - too small - but again the residents had their own church.

Towards the end of the day, the sun was coming out, and I was flagging a bit. I'm guessing that I might lose a pound or two on this tour, because it's been harder to get the right calories. But at the sixty five mile marker the supermarket in Morcenx offered me a chance to grab more water, and a cheeky fourpack of rice puddings. Again, I'm uncertain that this kind of approach fuels the average professional cyclist, but if there's one thing we're not, it's professional.

Exiting the village of Laluque, towards the end of the forest ride. I'd stopped for water and just wanted to grab a shot of the wonderful planting that seems to characterise so many french villages. There's a beautiful variety of flowers, and the grass verges are often lovingly tended too. It makes such a difference to the look of the countryside.

It was 1610 when I drew up at the Grand Hotel in Dax, 10 minutes after check-in opened. Raven is staying behind the staffed reception desk, learning a few french phrases before we get to Spain tomorrow. Me, I'm on the third floor, in a hotel that is fairly business-generic. This is fine for me, because a comfortable bed and air con was exactly what I needed, so much so that I promptly lay down and fell asleep.

When I woke, the sun had properly come out, and I wandered into Dax. It's a small spa city, of about 20000 people, with Basque influences foreshadowing tomorrow's border crossing. I think I saw most of the centre in a half hour walk, and very lovely it was too. Lots of blond stone, its own river, and plenty of sociable cafés beginning to fill with a chattering weekend crowd.

I treated myself to a proper dinner tonight. It's Sunday in France tomorrow. I might be living off hedgerow berries.

The cathedral! - I think this is an obligatory shot for all towns; it's reliably the most spectacular architecture. This one was pretty hemmed in by shops, the larger squares being the preserve of bars and cafés.

Random view in the city centre. The planting was more tropical here, and I liked the mural too; an aquatic theme that chimed with much of the way they'd dressed this spa city.

Place de la fontaine chaude, or, less romantically , "Hot fountain square." The water temperature is just over 60 degrees. Part of me wished I'd brought my cycle kit out here to wash, instead of doing it back at the hotel. They might not have appreciated my vetiver shower gel though.

A pretty square out by the riverside, on the edge of the shopping area.

Proper food. With charcuterie to begin, and chocolate pudding to end. I'll be going to bed happy tonight.

Today's ride: 94 miles (151 km)
Total: 495 miles (797 km)

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