Castel di Sangro to Tre Faggi

September 14, 2015

We rose early with the intent to be on the road by 9:00 AM. Today was our most challenging day of the tour: 61 miles and 7000 feet of climbing (per RWGPS), and we thought it best to allow extra time so we could avoid riding in the dark!

It was also our most varied and interesting day, as we went through lots of different challenges other than distance and climbing! It included heavily traveled roads, little-used country roads, tunnels and a tunnel bypass, mountains and mountain valleys (with lakes), and multiple mountain passes! Throw in a restricted road over a dam and some treacherous stairs, and you have a real adventure. We ended the day with a traditional Italian dinner in a ski resort, Rifugio Tre Faggi Albergo, that we had all to ourselves. It was run by a quirky mom-and-pop duo who took a liking to us and made us feel very much at home.

Today's ride to Tre Faggi

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The day started in Castel di Sangro, leaving town on a somewhat busy road, SS17, for Loc Speno. Our first climb of the day came early: a long, slow churn up to Rionero Sannitico. We (maybe that should be I) could feel the climb in our (my) legs, and deep down I was already concerned we would have a difficult day. But it was early, and I need 10 miles or so to warm up. It always gets better!

In the distance, we could see the mountains surrounding the valley . . . and pretty much surrounding everything in this part of Italy. Looking west, they were heavily ensconced in dark clouds and what looked like rain to me. Our first rain day!

The mountains in the distance, ensconced in dark clouds.

The road quickly became less traveled as we put distance between us and our hotel. After the first climb, the road became mostly gentle and level, if not on a slight descent. We were headed for another valley and had a mountain pass to navigate that would be mostly downhill before a climb up to the more modern but busy arterial. Our route had been selected to avoid major roads as much as possible, and we were rewarded with this beautiful road that was probably the original way through the mountains.

As we progressed, the road became more proper and leveled out a bit.

And passed through several old mountain villages.

It did require a major climb up to the highway, where we found traffic to be somewhat light, although with a significant number of trucks. It was about then that we started feeling a few drops of rain here and there. Nothing requiring a rain jacket, but it also wasn't getting much brighter. Also, we were approaching a major bridge over the valley with little or no shoulder, so increased visibility was not a bad idea. We had charged our light systems the night before in anticipation of biking late into the evening, so we stopped long enough to mount them, mostly for the rear taillight, and were good to go.

All things considered, we crossed the bridge with ease and were on our way to our next challenge, a major highway tunnel! However, with the help of Google Maps, we already had a strategy for navigating around it.

The tunnel, courtesy of Google Street View. I was too busy to take my own pic!

And our bypass route, which was accessed through the open portal of the tunnel section you see above (the large opening at the end of the columns on the left). Beyond that point, the tunnel became fully enclosed for a length of nearly half a mile!

After navigating the bypass, we returned to the main road and continued on our happy way, still on a major road but one that seemed to dissipate the traffic the further we biked. Eventually we arrived at the turnoff that would take us to the foot of Parco Regionale del Matese. We were now on very local and very narrow "farm" roads, riding along and literally touching (brushing along) the local crops. The road was so narrow it was barely wide enough to hold a single vehicle. So along the way, we startled more than one farmer!

Our route through the farmland. There were sections much narrower than this, and it made for perfect cycling.

We eventually navigated our way to wider roads but then were met with this! We later determined it to be a dam (at the time we were not sure). But regardless, it was nothing I hadn't crossed before, and Mark was game!

After negotiating the barriers, it was smooth sailing to Capriati a Volturno, where we stopped for lunch and to stock up for the big climb.

Lunch in Capriati a Volturno. The road behind me is the start of the climb.

And this is a view after it leaves town (which was not long in coming).

And the view from the top. You can make out the road as it weaves its way up. It was a relentless climb!

Finally at the top, we crested one last hill and saw:

This was now rolling terrain . . . at least till the next mountain valley. We crossed two more before our last descent and then the climb to Tre Faggi.

At the crest of the second mountain valley pass, we made some new friends.

After one more pass, we came to the last valley and lake.

We still had a climb to do to make it to Tre Faggi, but by now it was old hat! The terrain changed a bit, and we now passed through a wooded section, which then leveled off and descended before the last final ascent.

Finally, our arrival (this was taken the next morning!).

And a delightful three-course meal (we declined dessert).

We had earned that!

Today's ride: 60 miles (97 km)
Total: 209 miles (336 km)

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