Capri

September 20, 2015

Wow, another day off! We are taking it easy through these parts so we can enjoy the culture, scenery, and food! So today we made a side trip to Capri, a beautiful island just off the coast and easily accessed by ferry from Sorrento.

Accessed by these treacherous-looking stairs (we took the bus up when we returned).

Boarding the ferry was a pure Italian adventure. Apparently the schedule, carrier, and gate number make no difference whatsoever. We went to great lengths to schedule our departures in both directions, but it ultimately turned out to be irrelevant. As long as you had a ticket, you were boarded, regardless of your "scheduled" departure. The schedule made no difference anyway, and it seemed that when they had enough people, you were herded to the appropriate place on the dock and boarded.

Mind you, ferry service here is a big business. You can take a ferry just about anywhere. Naples, Pompei, Amalfi, Positano, and Capri, of course. It was interesting to see it all in operation, and I had to imagine how they shared the revenue. We had electronic tickets (probably the only ones with them), and they were viewed with a certain amount of suspicion. No problem on the way over, but it took some fancy dancing on the way back.

But finally, we were on our way. It was fun being on the open water again.

Waiting with the masses. Where are we supposed to be again?

One day in Capri is not much time. The ferry trip is 30 to 40 minutes; getting to the port in Sorrento took us 30 minutes, and then you have to sort through the confusion (nothing is posted, of course). And the same deal on the island. You don't need a car, but the buses are small, and even with this being off-season, we had to wait for two before we were on our way to Anacapri. Returning from Capri was much easier since the crowds were more staggered. So, in spite of what we had read, everything took about twice as long as budgeted.

The bus ride to Anacapri was pretty exciting. Maybe hair-raising is a better description. The Amalfi Coast had not prepared me for this cliff-hanging climb. Of course, Mark and I fantasized all the way up how we would have climbed it on our bikes. We saw no cyclists, however!

It's not easy being a bus driver in Capri!

The port of Capri seen from the road to Anacapri.

We wandered around Anacapri for a bit, and while I'm sure it is charming, it is overrun with tourists (guilty party here), so we made our way to the chairlift for the real adventure, Monte Solaro.

On the chairlift, lower level. Still pretty high up already!

Higher but not at the top. I was super concerned I might drop my phone, hence the finger capture!

At the top, the views are spectacular and not to be missed (note the ferry tickets are far from cheap!). There is also a nice cafe at the summit that is worth lingering in over a beer. You can walk down if you choose. I was told that takes 30 minutes. But the chairlift is far too much fun.

The view north. We will be on that spit of land in three days or less!

The trip down. It is amazing the things you see people doing going the other way. Where is my GoPro when I need it?

And a second view of the harbor while on the bus to Capri Centro. This time I had a seat!

The bus we returned on took us to Capri Centro, not the marina (port) where we landed. That allowed us to tour the main town a bit, eat some so-so Italian food made for tourists, and take the funicular down to the port. We picked a very touristy spot with a great view, knowing there was better food coming elsewhere!

A panoramic view of Capri from our lunch spot.

The funicular down to the port from the main piazza in Capri (got to make that transportation plug when I can).

So we thought we were prepared for the ferry antics, but, as it turned out, not really. We arrived earlier than our scheduled departure. "No problem, take any ferry," we were told. So we go to Gate 3 to catch a 4:05. But no, "This ferry goes to Napoli, not Sorrento. Go to the next one." So off we go only to find that ferry goes to Amalfi. "Follow this guy to the next one." OK, we can handle this, although it is about 4:04 at this point.

At the next one, we wait 20 minutes (just about right for the scheduled 4:20 ferry) and go to board the Sorrento ferry with the masses. Problem! "No electronic tickets! You must have paper! Go back to the ticket office and get a paper ticket."

Now I see how the revenue is shared. You produce paper tickets and get your share of the pot! Well, I was not too happy with having to go through that whole routine a second time, so on the way back, I stopped at the second, or possibly third, boarding ramp (it was a big boat) and flashed my iPhone. "No good," he said. But with a plaintive look on my face, he shooed me up the ramp, admonishing me about paper tickets. We were on board!

Note: Over the years and after three bike tours through Italy, this being my fourth, I have learned that if you ask enough people, you will get the answer you want and hopefully a path forward! So if your first answer is "No," move along and ask someone else. You'll eventually get what you need. This is probably true in a lot of places but seemed apropos given the circumstances!

The ride back was gorgeous with the setting sun behind us. We took the bus up to town (only 1.20 euros) and headed back to the hotel to rest before dinner.

Tomorrow we ride for Pompei, which is not far but does require some climbing!

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0