We start the Via F: To Dover - Riding the Via Francigina - CycleBlaze

August 15, 2009

We start the Via F: To Dover

A good sleep at Kipp’s Hostel, a pretty poor breakfast but cheap and we were off to Dover. We got on to the track out of Canterbury easily on a dull cool morning. It was soon obvious that it was all up and down and much of it too steep for of us to ride. Many problems with navigation which was finally more or less solved by sticking to cycle route 16. Masses of factory farmed wheat, again all looking ready for harvest. Eventually we got to the magnificent Dover Castle which has guarded English Shores from invasion for 20 centuries. It would have been good to visit it but we were too intent on our journey to stop and the wonderful downhill was particularly inviting. We flew down it pleased we weren’t going in the opposite direction. All the B and Bs had no vacancy signs on them so we made our way to the Information Centre and again it looked as if we were in difficulty. Only two possible vacancies. The only one available immediately was at an expensive Band b at St Margaret’s about 3miles North on the coast. We took the bird in the hand and foolishly followed the silly girl’s advice that the easiest way for us to get there would be on the White Cliffs Walkway – yes she said ‘it would be fine with bikes’

Then off into the bustling town to find lunch which we had outside at a Pub, very like an English breakfast really – ham, eggs, chips and beer (not that we have beer for breakfast!) Watching the British go by was not a pretty sight. The obesity amongst white people was staggering, both sexes young and old. There were some quite fit looking people but the majority were not. We then walked and rode to the foreshore which was very pretty with many swimmers and kayakers. The ferries on the left end and the cruise liners on the right. We went right to the ferry entrance to check out what we needed to do in the morning.

Then off to St Margaret’s along the Cliff Walk. Unfortunately this included lots of flights of steep steps and it was a major to get a fully laden bike up but with both of us on one bike we finally did it and were rewarded at the top by great views of the harbour and the ferries coming and going. Tricia felt an irresistible need to lie down! NEVER TAKE THIS ROUTE WITH A LOADED BIKE NO MATTER WHAT THE GIRL TELLS YOU IN THE INFORMATION. Finally we got onto the road to St Margaret’s and our Band B; it overlooked the sea with a beautiful garden out the back. This was weed free with all sorts of plants we wouldn’t have expected – Bananas, Fejoas, Figs, Hebes and the most magnificent begonias, so huge and perfect that I thought they were artificial. The room itself was small and lavishly decorated with an excellent bathroom.

A bit of a zizz and off down the road to the Smugglers Arms for an excellent dinner. Very nice people at the next table who were at St Margaret’s for a Classical Music festival. They come from Wales each year – youngsters to octogenarians and largely just play for themselves.

Learning of the day. NEVER take route advice from non cyclists.

NC 16
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Lunch by the wheat fields
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The Information Office in Dover
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Along the foreshore
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This doesn't look too bad!
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The wonderful view at the top
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In the garden at the B and B
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Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 251 km (156 miles)

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