September 30, 2009
Lake Bolsena
I thought I (Tricia) would never hear it. Ken emerged from the cold shower in this somewhat grotty campground. It was the end of the season and the camp ground was sure showing it - grass reduced to bare ground etc. He said with feeling "I'm sick of basic".
It was a short ride from Aquapendente. The start was enlivened for Ken by his Pasquali encounter. We were just getting to the far end of the town when Ken heard the unmistakable (to him) sound of a single cylinder machine start up. Lo and behold out of an allyway came an old bloke driving a Pasquali pulling a small trailer. The tractor was almost identical Ken's apart from the fact that it was single cylinder. Ken set off at high speed and eventually caught up with him in a supermarket car park. The pair tried to engage in excited conversation (they had no common language) and some photos were taken.
Then on uphill for nearly 10km - there was much less ribbon development here. Having come from London without seeing a single farmer working the ground until 2 days ago suddenly as we approached Lake Bolsena it was all go. There was ploughing (large single furrow), sowing and discing. The soil was very good silty soil near the lake and there were olives, grapes, corn and no doubt wheat. We arrived in Bolsena just after 10am and after a visit to the information were directed to the camping ground. This was beautifully situated beside the lake but after a long season was looking rather tired - in fact it was due to close down the next week.
There is a great jumble of old houses and a castle on the hill - all very old and certainly well established when Sijeric came through. the lovely old cathedral is where 'the Eucharistic miracle' took place and where Saint Christina was martyred.
Back at camp we had a meal from the supermarket and our first bottle of Dolcetto since home - it was pretty good but not as good as ours.
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Today's ride: 22 km (14 miles)
Total: 2,084 km (1,294 miles)
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