August 2, 2022
Up the Frying Pan
nearly to Hagerman Pass
During the railroad expansion era in Colorado, the Midland Railroad Company built a line over Hagerman Pass to get to Aspen. This railroad company went bankrupt in the 1920's. Most of their rail right of way has become a road, which looks perfect for my first high pass crossing in Colorado as I will mostly be cycling at a rail grade. The railroad twice built a tunnel through the actual pass. However, neither of them are accessible to me anymore. Instead I will have to go over the pass using a rough track.
After farewelling Lu and Paul, I'm continuing in the gorge beside the Frying Pan River. However, unfortunately a light headwind makes it a slower ride than I hoped. Thankfully only occasionally do I need to be aware of cars, with most of them containing fishermen.
After an hour or so, due to a reservoir, the rail right of way is under water. Instead I have to climb for a bit around the reservoir. Despite it being steeper than when beside the Frying Pan River, without the headwind, it actually feels like an easier climb as I pace my way up.
Once at the high point, I'm able to roll down to the eastern end of the reservoir to the small town of Meredith. Unfortunately I have timed my ride for the only day the general store is closed. Knowing this I have more water on board than normal but I'm still drinking plenty.
I'm back following the Frying Pan River but it's less red as I'm cycling through more forested areas. It's a similar gradient as before the reservoir and with less wind it should be an easier ride but fatigue is catching up with me. Still I'm making reasonable time and at this pace I should make it over Hagerman Pass in good time.
Occasionally along the way are a few campgrounds but they all down off the road.
As the road begins to loop back on itself, to enable the railroad to climb, a grassy spot, will do for my lunch spot.
After making my own chicken wrap lunch, as I go around the corner, suddenly the road stops being paved. Still the gravel is fine to cycle.
At times visible through trees on my left is where I was previously down below. While a few cuttings show that clearly a railroad used this pine forested route,. Occasionally I'm seeing places where people have camped, while only a few cars are passing me.
Despite feeling like I'm cycling okay at a reasonable rate, I'm suddenly feeling nauseous and I have a minor headache. So I sit down for a rest. I'm guessing but perhaps this is altitude sickness as I have never been this high before on my bicycle.
As I continue, despite the gradual gradient, every so often I feel like another rest, so I do.
At this rate, my plan of getting over Hagerman Pass and onto Leadville today will probably not happen anymore.
After passing through a high cutting, the road becomes spectacularly on the side of a cliff face, but the surface suddenly turns rocky. I now know I won't make it over tonight. While randomly a couple of light showers of rain appear before thankfully disappearing.
Once the junction off to Hagerman Pass appears, it's even rockier and because a train never went this way it's steep. So rather than try to walk my bike now, this will do for a place to camp among pine trees at a previously used camp site.
It's a nice relaxing quiet site with a creek flowing nearby. Allowing me to boil some water, so I can safely drink it.
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