August 22, 2022
Phantom Canyon
Near Canyon city to Dunville
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There was a bit of rain overnight, so being under the shelter at my campsite meant everything was dry in the morning.
The curvy rollercoaster style cycling continues on the way to Canon City but still I'm at the old Sante Fe railroad depot before 8am.
After asking where I can leave my bike, helpfully a receptionist, suggest I just lock it to a bench beside the depot and she will keep an eye on it.
The predominantly orange Royal Gorge train is waiting and it's not a particularly busy Monday, perhaps because I believe school is back today in Colorado.
Annoyingly in the open car I'm in, they are playing music the whole time, I had been expecting some commentary instead. Especially as there was violent conflict between two railroad companies who wanted to build through this gorge. The Rio Grande ultimately won the court battle, preventing the Sante Fe from travelling any further up stream.
I can ask a staff member about the history of the railway through this gorge but it's not the same. Still I am able to learn from a staff member why there is a remains of a metal pipe all along the gorge. As he explains that due to mining, the river water become s polluted, they had to build a pipe to supply drinking water to the miners.
Still the gorge is amazing to see especially as it becomes narrow. While along the way a few rafters pass us and I wonder if that would have been a better experience.
After collecting some food, I'm soon leaving Canon City because the local museum is closed today. As I climb away, farewell to the Arkansas River, you have been a joy to travel beside.
Once I begin travelling through Phantom Canyon, I'm able to relax as there is little traffic and I'm climbing at a railway grade. As the road soon turns to gravel, I'm initially concerned as it's corrugated.
Thankfully after a while, I'm able to find flatter parts but it still a slow climb as it feels all up hill especially as I know I have to climb for a while.
I'm following a creek through a gorge, with a couple of bored tunnels to go through. Along the way I'm passing a few basic camp sites, so I know no matter how far I get tonight, I should find a place to camp.
After crossing on original red railway bridge, suddenly the road is climbing on the edge of a cliff and going through a few short cuttings. Despite the overcast weather it's a spectacular relaxing ride on a railway line that closed in 1912.
It's a slower climb than I hoped, so I won't make the town of Victor tonight. Instead beside the creek at the locality of Dunville, I have found a place to camp beside a drop toilet, with a verandah.
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