Day 81: Angers to Ancenis

October 10, 2015

We were a little misguided to think that the famous chocolate shop selling bons bons made up to look like slate was directly opposite our hotel. That was a different chocolate shop. The slate one was two doors down from that! (We must have seen a dozen chocolatiers in town today).

The shop we were after was La Petite Marquise. Here, everything is coated in a kind of blue coloured chocolate, to represent the blue/black of slate. Their signature item, the Quernon d'Ardoise, are little blue slabs of nougatine. We got a precious few to bring home.

The chocolate store, almost across the street

The theme of the store is well illustrated by this purple toned representation of Angers and slate work on its outskirts

Our main target for looking around Angers was the three markets that our Chamina guide listed for Saturday morning. We followed the city map from the hotel and soon arrived at the first square. There we found vendors setting up, but they were all dealing in low cost new stuff, like purses, shoes, or iPhone covers. We set off for the second square, but actually the vendors were so numerous they extended down the street and to the next square. They were all unfortunately selling either new junk or garage sale junk. Finally we came to the real market, which was also very large. Despite its size, it seemed to contain mostly fruit and veggie vendors, all with very similar product. We found here no bakers, and no BBQ chicken trucks.

These mountains of perfect thin green beans are amazing - hard to grow, hard to pick, hard to find - we know!

We were of course not concerned about the bakers, because they are all over the place, and in every town. So we headed for the cathedral. Passing through the streets of Angers, we could see broad boulevards and squares, and buildings somewhat reminiscent of Paris. If Tours is a little Paris like, then Angers is a little less, but still definitely not on the crumbly white village model. We also spotted another of those signs that say Angers belongs to people who "raise a foot" (presumably pedestrians and cyclists) , so car drivers - take it easy. We like that.

St Aubin tower, an Angers landmark, had been part of a monastery, now is a municipal office building

The cathedral was impressive, but maybe not as much as others we have seen. We always look for what is unique and different when we visit a church, and here may it is the fact that they have not one but two rose windows, with explanations of what is in them posted on the floor below. There is also a lot of carved wood.

Have a quick look:

Carving supporting the organ in the cathedral

Again, the cathedral does not stand at the head of a square with restaurants. bakeries, and banks. Rather there are jut some miscellaneous buildings around. Between these, though, there is a view down to the riverside, the river being of course the Maine.

The plain buildings that stand in front of the cathedral

To head towards Nantes we needed to cross the Maine and then head through the massive (220 hectares - 543 acres) park that is there by a lake that is part of the river system. Beyond the park is the spot where the Maine enters the Loire: Bouchemaine. At Bouchemaine we finally got our baguette, plus a tarte aux poires. Both were really good. We would be surprised to find a mediocre anything these days in the artisanal bakeries that are so common.

The chateau at Angers. The 17 towers used to be topped by turrets which were removed at some time over the centuries.

One of the great fruit flans at the Bouchemaine bakery

We had hung around Angers, the park, the bakery for quite a while, but of course were confident we could just cruise over to Ancenis, a further about 60 km, away. But now the route starting to wind up and down through little places like la Pointe, and this slowed us down a lot. But we still did not feel deterred from stopping in to places like the church (St Pierre and St Romain) at Savenierres.

At least one interesting thing at La Pointe - other than hills.

The church of St Pierre and St Romain at Savennieres

Finally we did rather get into gear, something helped by the relatively routine road and surrounding we were going through. It was small roads and small farms, with just a few distractions (like a large abandoned charcoal operation and a giant metal chicken) down the Loire.

We noted this place last time, when it was closed as well. It is the quirky Cafe Lenin.

Small roads formed most of our route this day. Generally it was safe, but oncoming cars often seemed to rocket past.

People continue to hopefully fish all over. we have seen fish in the river, but seldom if ever do we see anyone catch one.

The bridge at Ancenis is a large structure, but no problem for cycling since a sidewalk is provided. Ancenis has a little chateau of its own. It was built in 983 and has a long history (obviously) with the rulers of Brittany (which is where magically we have arrived at). We also noted what could be a good indoor market. We will check these things out tomorrow, because at the time we were intent on finding our hotel.

The hotel is the Akwaba, which their literature translates as meaning 'a cordial welcome" in Ivory Coast. It is on the "wrong" side of the tracks, but is actually very nice.

Tomorrow is a big day, not only for checking out the chateau and possible market, but also because our friend Michel is cycling out from near Nantes to meet us. We then anticipate two days of fun and cycling in the Nantes area, before our lightening dash by train to Paris and back. Michel is bringing some cycling friends too, so it could be quite a party!

A view of part of Ancenis from the bridge

Our hotel, on the "other" side of the tracks.

The view from our window. The bit of our roof visible is ardois! Just out of view is a LIDL!

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 3,964 km (2,462 miles)

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