Moselkern to Bernkastel-Kues

July 5, 2015

Because riding is cooler

Since it seems cooler riding than not riding, we actually did 102 km today, with temperatures approaching 40C. Al says his Garmin read 46C.

We stayed on the left bank as far as Cochem, where we crossed to the right bank.

Interesting architecture. Cochem would be a place to stop and explore, if it weren't so hot.

See the dates on the doorway--and the flood levels marked near the corner of the building

Looking back, I wish we could have stayed. But we needed the breeze of riding.

Beilstein. Should have stopped here for a look around!

Approaching Senheim, the bike path comes up to run beside the road and there we caught up to two tractors going in the same direction as us. The man driving the lead tractor looked at me with a "let's race" expression and off we went. Al passed me and led, though he hadn't seen the friendly challenge. We easily beat the tractors to Senheim, but I have to say they were vintage tractors.

In Senheim we saw why they were on the road. The signs we saw said "Weinfest" but there appeared also to be a vintage tractor show. Lots of people and a tractor parade. We didn't stop though, because if you weren't moving and creating your own breeze, it was just too hot.

We crossed the Mosel again at Senheim and rode the left bank as far as Alf, where we crossed to Bullay. On to Zell where we found a shady bench to eat our sandwiches saved from breakfast. It being Sunday, we hadn't seen anywhere to buy fruit and we were still hungry and in need of cold drinks. A bakery-cafe with umbrella-shaded tables was found. We also filled our water bottles with cool water in the WC.

As we continued to Traben-Trarbach, the sky clouded over and the wind came up. Approaching Trarbach, the wind gusts were quite strong and the water in my bottles (what was left of it) was almost hot. I could have made tea, if I had a teabag. We considered packing it in for the day, but the place wasn't all that appealing and while we were considering, the wind slowed. Onward, then, returning to the left bank.

The famous bridge gate at Traben-Trarbach

Coming into Kröv, we encountered a detour (Umlautung) which led up a steep hill. The cause of the detour was a parade! Who wouldn't rather watch a parade than ride a loaded bike up a steep hill in 38 degree heat?

The Dudeldorf Lions Pipes & Drums. Not what I would have expected in a small town parade in Germany. They even have a web page http://www.dudeldorflion.de

Another red vehicle for my brother. I bet Crescent Valley VFD would like one of these!

Kröv also had a new (and open) tourist info with free WCs so we filled our bottles with cool water yet again. Another 20 km or so got us to Bernkastel, our original goal for the day.

Kinheim, I think. See the writing on the eaves of these two houses.

We found a room at the Rieslinghaus, a wine shop with hotel attached. Al thinks it is the nicest room we've had, though I think the one at An dear Loreley was superior. This one, at 83€, is a bit cheaper. Our bikes are stored in a city radkeller, which is supposedly locked at 6 p.m. for the night. It wasn't locked when we left for dinner at 6:15; it seems even German punctuality is affected by this unseasonable heat.

Although almost every building in this town seems to be a hotel, we were somewhat challenged to find a restaurant that appealed. But we did, tempted by a chalkboard outside that featured "Käsekuchen ... Oma Rezept". Our meals were very good, but the cheesecake wasn't available today because it was too hot to bake. Al had a dessert waffle instead and it was delectable.

View from the staircase of our hotel in Bernkastel

One of the many squares in Bernkastel. See the narrow building in the background?

The Spitzhäuschen (pointed house) dates from the middle of the 15th century and currently is a wine shop (of course)

Closer view of the sign for the Badstube Restaurant (it's a pizza place; the "e" is missing here or has a dead bulb). Bathtub in German is Badewanne but the sign is playing on the English-sounding word. Of course, I didn't know that Badstube wasn't bathtub until I looked it up.

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Today's ride: 102 km (63 miles)
Total: 854 km (530 miles)

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