Day 51 Estancia Telken: where the asphalt ends

December 12, 1999

The three of us head out of the campground to Perito Moreno. That's the three of us and a little dog from the campground. He kept galloping along with his tongue hanging out, we keep thinking he'd eventually turn around, but he kept following us.

We get a couple km out of town and up a hill and still he chases us.

Alan & Patrick are ahead of Rachel leaving the dog in front of her. She would speed up and move over in front of her wheel. Finally Patrick turns around toward town, the dog following and gets to a police checkpoint. With the police help, Patrick leaves the dog behind.

We cycle along Lago Bueno Aires, on the Chilean side the lake is Lago General Carrera. Patrick and Alan see an armadillo, the little bugger was gone by the time Rachel got up the hill. We arrive in Perito Moreno by noon. After finding a gas station, Patrick calls Estancia Telken, a Dutch run place to find out about a tour to Cueva De Las Manos (Cave of the Hands). We say goodbye to Alan.

We go to the Supermercado to stock up on food for 7 days of Ruta 40. We expecting to find more but after searching through the small store we find enough supplies. Some things we would have liked are not available, so you make do with what is there. No flavored rice packets so we get a box of plain rice. Much to Patrick's delight we find cornflakes and put the instant oatmeal back on the shelf. $86.00 of supplies, Patrick pays by Vida.

Bags and Bags and Bag of groceries that now a place in the panniers needs to be found. Patrick is way loaded down. He moves the spare tires now tied together on a long string so one can hang form either side of the back panniers. He also has hanging off to one side 3 large empty coke bottles (2 Liters) for carrying water when we reach the stretch of road when water will be sparse.

All packed up we head out of town and reach Ruta 40, where the asphalt ends.

We were told the pampas is mostly flat and boring, but not so today. We start with a hill that requires pushing, and immediately met by a ferocious crosswind. Blowing from the West while our road heads South South-West.

The wide gravel road has four tracks on it, cars traveling each way created them. With the cross wind trying to blow us out of them, we try to follow the one that looks best. It is hard work every once and a while the wind knocks us out of the track, into the loose gravel, through the next track and off the road. Some sections we have to walk, it's hard to keep the bike upright. Patrick says he keeps thinking of physics with an equal side force, the faster you can go, the lesser that side force would affect your direction?!?

Estancia Telken is 28 km out of town and a 3.5km side spur. It's beautifully situated amongst poplars that provide windbreak. We get a very friendly reception, invited in and served tea and cake. Patty Nauta radios her son in Perito Moreno to make sure we are on the tour tomorrow.

We camp on a neatly trimmed lawn in front of a little kitchen/bathroom building. Everything is so nice we can't believe this is Ruta 40. For dinner we eat ravioli with beans and a big bottle of coke we carried here.

Today's ride: 92 km (57 miles)
Total: 2,267 km (1,408 miles)

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