Day 47 Coyhaique - Racpat South America 1999-2000 - CycleBlaze

December 8, 1999

Day 47 Coyhaique

Los Salamandras

At 730am we leave the campground. The caretaker never shows up and so we guess there was no fee for camping or maybe he is on strike too. On our way out of town we ride past the bakery that was out of bread yesterday afternoon. Patrick thought he understood to come back this morning but they are still closed. We'll have to make do with some old bread we are still carrying from Villa Amengual and the Christmas bread.

The first 15km out of Villa Manihuales are still under construction and the road is bad! Then it gets a bit better, a whole bit because we get a sealed road as an option to Coyhaique. The Carretera Austral continues as a dirt/gravel road, but a concrete road cuts across the main road between Coyhaique and the coast. It's a beautiful ride through a valley, green pastures and mountains on both sides. Rain threatens for a while, but it stays warm and sunny all day. 

Twice on this road we meet cowboys herding cows down the road, once its only a small boy on a horse herding two huge oxen. Patrick feels very small when he passes them.

After 30km on the main road to Coyhaique we turn east again. A big sign warns us for a tunnel closure just before Coyhaique from 3 to 6. We first decide not to race it and just take it easy, but a fierce tailwind helps us along so well that later we decide to go for it. The route is beautiful farms and millions of lupines lining the road. Patrick thinks Rachel has taken more pictures than him today.

Just before the tunnel there is a steep climb but we make it through at 2:30. After a brief break for lunch we continue to climb and climb to a great rise from where we see the city of Coyhaique down below. 

A fast downhill takes us back to the river though and another climb into town. We search, ask and find a supermercado and buy some supplies before heading out to the Salamander hostel we hear about from John and Kim. Its on the road to the airport, south of town.

Down a big hill to the river, and then up a narrow gravel path that is so steep we both have to push one bike at a time. The hostel is nice, all built of wood, wide beech planks and pine logs. There is a great main room, kitchen, laundry, and lunchroom. We choose to camp out back though. It's cheaper and often in hostels, quieter. 

Today was a long hard ride. We eat pork chops, potatoes and beans, shower and go to the tent. Camped next to us are two cyclists from Amsterdam, but they are headed home tomorrow. 

Today's ride: 54 km (34 miles)
Total: 2,064 km (1,282 miles)

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