February 9, 2000
Day 110 Salto-Concordia-Posadas: Argentina again
We are up early with only 10km to ride into Salto. We ride through town to the ferry dock and see a naval ceremony about to begin so we stop to watch and wait to buy our ticket. Patrick investigates to find out about immigration and customs. The ferry is scheduled for an 8:45 am crossing and leaving Uruguay. This is an interesting country, people carry a thermos and mate cup everywhere, zip around on motor scooters, the passenger drinking mate, the gas stations have hot water available to make mate. One picture of a car dealership window, in front of the cars selling scooters, parked in front on the street and more scooters, bicycles and a horse and cart.
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We get the ticket and walk to an old stone building that looks under restoration. An official sits at a small wooden table in an otherwise empty room. He stamps our passports after looking through them at the other stamps on the pages, then looks with disgust? But he is friendly enough to show us a way down a few steps with our bikes. Our bikes are tied to the roof of the rusty looking boat and our gear is stored inside. We are off for a 15-20 minute crossing to Concordia Argentina to catch a bus for Posada. We had been looking at least another week of cycling the same and a few days through Brazil. We received warnings from locals and the Brazilian Consulate about cycling this section. This week we save may mean the difference of going or not going to the Galapagos Islands.
The bus for Posada doesn't leave until 9pm it's now just 9:30am. We decide to find the campground and hang out there until this evening. We ride through town again to the campground; each intersection reminds us we are now in the land of crazy drivers again.
We find shade, lay out the thermarests, read, rest and Patrick patches a tire. About 1-2pm we find a parilla for lunch taking our things with us. We are served Budweiser and have the comida de dia for 2: fries, ensalada and a tray of meat with charcoal to keep it warm.
We go back to the campground, but just after getting the thermarests out, a clap of thunder and a big dark cloud appears. We quickly pack up and head for shelter. What looks like the roof is actually the floor and it leaks. The rainstorm doesn't last long. We find a bench across the street to sit out of the sun. Soon there's a dozen kids mostly on bikes around us. Patrick "talks" soccer with them. A big truck speeds around the roundabout but skids on the wet pavement and rams into a curb ruining his right front tire, but quickly drives on into the campground out of sight.
After six we ride to the Plaza de Armas, Rachel walks around the shops for awhile, we find a restaurant on the corner and share a pizza. About 7:30pm we head for the bus station. Patrick buys our tickets, we organize our stuff, what to check in, what to carry on. Patrick prepares the bikes: handlebars turned, pedals off, put the small panniers and loose stuff in the duffle bag.
The bus pulls in, a little chaos pursues as people get off and try to get their luggage and other people trying to get their luggage on the bus. Patrick takes one bike while Rachel watches the gear especially the handlebar bags that have our papers and money. Patrick negotiates with and pays the luggage handler then supervises the loading of the bikes. Rachel shuttles the gear over and keeps the carryon stuff. We are on the bus and find our seats.
After pulling out of the station and before out of the city, the conductor passes out dinner trays to most of the passengers, those of us just getting on are given packages of cookies. The he starts a movie. We watch only about 10minutes and then gets the sleeping bags out to use as a blanket and settle in.
It's a 7-8 hour ride.
Today's ride: 10 km (6 miles)
Total: 3,624 km (2,251 miles)
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