September 27, 2022 to September 29, 2022
Bagneres -de- Luchon
Luchon Rest-Rain days
The planned, one-day rest in Luchon has turned into a two-day wait for the weather to improve. The forecast of 90% chance of rain and highs in the low teens was confirmed when we looked out the window in the morning and saw the low clouds and wet trees, so we decided to stay one more night. We may only cross these passes once, and would rather do so on sunny days when we can appreciate being up in the mountains and actually see the views.
Luchon has been known for the thermal springs since Roman times and, judging by the number of people with canes on the sidewalks, it still draws people looking for the cure. We went along to the baths, hoping that a soak would help the aching muscles, if not cure everything, only to be turned away. Due to the major renovation, they are accepting only patrons who sign up for a full, multi-week package. Next time!
We had better luck with the yoga class. A poster on a storefront gave the times and places of yoga classes, so on Tuesday at 12:15 we found the crumbling, old pavilion that is now a rec centre and followed the ladies in yoga pants. Charlotte welcomed us in and even provided mats, perhaps because it was the first week of the class and they were encouraging new sign-ups. The session was very relaxing with lots of stretching so there should be no excuses for cramps on the cols - when we get there!
The tourist map shows plenty of hiking trails in the valley, but the one we chose was very steep and after the rain, was muddy and slippery, so we turned back before we got high enough up for any good views.
Steve spent part of the day once again fiddling with Ann's bike, which has not been shifting well. After consulting you-tube, the diagnosis was that the newest chain was too short since replacing the rear cassette with one that has a larger low gear sprocket. Tuesday afternoon, we couldn't find a bike shop with a mechanic to confirm this theory, but did find a chain for sale and, using the newly-learned, largest sprocket to largest cog sizing technique, replaced the chain. Ann said it was much better after a trial run around town, but we shall see how it performs on hills and with a load.
Luchon reminded me of Banff, with its wide avenues, mountain views and its mix of funky, younger, sporty types hanging out in coffee shops and bars, waiting for ski season to get started along with well-heeled, older visitors keeping the economy going in the elegant restaurants and souvenir shops.
Tomorrow the chance of rain drops to 50% at 11am, we are well rested and have made healthy meals in our little apartment in Luchon, so we will pack up and hope for a clear crossing of the Peyresourde pass into Arreau.
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