Olot-Sant Joan de les Abadesses-Ripoll-Vallfogona de Ripolles-Olot
After the hotel breakfast I set out for Sant Joan de les Abadesses on GI 521 (as marked on my Michelin map but signed N-260a on the ground). This turned out to be a quiet road with more bikes than cars. All the local and visiting roadies were out since it's Saturday. There were also a lot of Lycra-clad riders on mountain bikes. I was just wondering why they were all men when the first woman went by with a wave. Strangely, all were going downhill as I cranked up and nobody passed me going up. Even without the panniers, I'm slow so the usual route must be another way.
At the top were two German tourers, fully loaded, getting ready to descend. They were starting the last week of their trip from Bordeaux along the coast to Santander (?) and then east through the Spanish Pyrenees by way of Pamplona (mostly on N-260). He said they preferred Spain to France because of the drivers—Spanish drivers slow down, make sure it's safe to pass, and leave a lot of room, while French drivers accelerate past leaving very little room. I'll see if I agree at the end of my trip.
From Coll de Coubet I took the road to Sant Joan which led over Coll de Sentigosa with a saddle between. The descent to Sant Joan was fast and fun, but I don't know how much the many people on mountain bikes riding up were enjoying it. Many were struggling but one man was keeping up a good pace, even with a kid in a rear child seat and what appeared to be a tow rope to a much bigger child on a separate bike. Impressive!
Sant Joan de les Abadesses was very interesting. I'd already decided to make a coffee stop there and my route took me right past the remains of the 12th century church. I slammed on the brakes. As I was leaning my bike against a tree, I noticed a water tap, and as I was filling my bottles, the bells in the tower began to ring. First one, then another, then a third, and then a fourth. The square tower has a bell on each side, each of a different size and pitch. It was very loud and very beautiful. I was so glad I was there just at noon!
The 12th century church (what remains of it) in Sant Joan de les Abadesses
I wandered the medaieval town in search of a bakery or café but found one on the main street very close to the church. Café con leche and a delicious pastry were less than 3€. Afterward, over the Pont Vell with its very steep cobble surface and onto N-260. The Germans had told me there was a rail trail adjacent to the highway but I didn't see it–until I did, and a way to access it too. Paved all the way to Ripoll, very pleasant.
In Ripoll, the Saturday market was bustling in many small plazas and streets of the old town. I bought two large, very ripe apricots and ate them in the park by the river. Then back on my bike to ride GI 521 through Vallfogona de Ripollès and onward over Coll de Canes and Coll de Coubet again. I might have said "four colts in a day" except I was zooming downhill when I passed the sign for Coll de Coubet so it doesn't really count from that direction. Down, down, down. No wonder I had to take so many breaks on the way up!
Ancient olive tree, Ripoll. I think the blue sign in the wall was installed in 2008 to commemorate the tree's existence since 1008, but I could have misinterpreted.
I worked on my journal (enjoying a Clara and a small bag of strange potato things), oiled my chain, and read my book until it was time to find a place to eat. I arrived at my chosen restaurant around 7:30, to be told I was early. I said I'd wait with a glass of wine but I didn't realize the kitchen wouldn't open until 9! I'm sure the website said 8:00. Maybe because it's Saturday. The food, when it came, was good. For dessert, I had a dark-beer-flavoured mousse-like item. The menu was in Catalan only and I can't remember what it was called, but it was unique and tasty!
Menu in Catalan. Close enough to Spanish to have some idea of what you might get.
