Ceret to Prades - Pyrenees Solo 2016 - CycleBlaze

July 5, 2016

Ceret to Prades

Ceret-Col de Llauro-Col Foirtou-Prades with detour to Prieure de Serrabonne

I started my day with packing up my camp and breakfast at a boulangerie and was actually on the road by 7:30. I took the D615 to Col de Llauro; it was newly paved and a pleasant ride. Along one ridge, just before the turnoff to St-Férréol Ermitage, I could see the Mediterranean in the distance. At the unmarked Col de Llauro, I turned onto D13 and continued to Col Fourtou. This one was marked and is also the intersection with D618 and an even smaller road. There were signs on D618 warning of loose surface, and this was the case, but the gravel wasn't deep, just a surface layer. With the narrowness and present surface condition, I took the descent cautiously. I saw several roadies going the other way, including a group of about 10.

I love these signs! Why are we fighting for a 1-metre passing law in BC?
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Last view of the Mediterranean! It was more visible in person.
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Another Col with crossroads
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So that's why there are so many roadies!
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Then I came to the turnoff for Prieuré de Serrabonne. I dithered. Four km of switchbacks, according to the map. Two stars, though. I went for it.

I kept seeing these trees with the red bottoms. Are they cork trees?
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I was right, it's a cork tree.
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Closer view of the cork
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Mike AylingJacquie
Are corks used much in wine bottles there?
Almost all wine here in Oz comes with screw caps.

Mike
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3 years ago
Jacquie GaudetI didn't buy any bottles since I was travelling by myself and eating out--so I had my wine by the glass or "pichet". But I believe bottles in France usually do have corks.

Here in BC, some wines are in screw-top bottles and some with corks, though the corks are often artificial (at my price point, anyway).

I think a lot of this depends on the bottling system. If you have a new system, maybe it's set up to seal the bottles with screw-tops (and you can obtain the appropriate bottles). But if the system is old and still working well, why change?
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3 years ago
The red eventually fades. I'm surprised the trees survive.
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Chemins de Saint-Jacques everywhere!
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Serrabona Priory
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The famous cloister with
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its famous carved capitals
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Old fresco
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The gallery
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More carved capitals in the gallery
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This one doesn't look finished
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Almost finished?
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Gallery ceiling. In this photo and the next, I was trying to capture how the round arches don't seem to be structural. There are gaps between them and the stonework above.
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The entire interior of the priory was once finished and painted like this.
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On my return to D618, I was hungry. I had thought about stopping in Boule-d'Amont for coffee, but didn't, and now it was 1:30 and long past those two croissants I'd had for breakfast. Bouleternère supposedly had a restaurant, and I followed the signs, but I couldn't find it. On to the N 116, not a pleasant road for cyclists. I turned off into Rodès, no luck. Approaching Vinça, there was a sign for "nonstop Catalan cuisine and local products" and I thought that would do. It was a lot further than expected (I thought that first sign said 1 km but I must have read it wrong). When I got there, the prepared food kiosk was closed "unexpectedly" so I got baguette, cheese, cherry tomatoes and apricots.

Fuelled up, I returned to the N 116. I felt better but the road was still awful. At Marquixanes I stopped and consulted the map for a better route. I was in luck! Just here, and not before, I could cross the river Têt and ride the D35 on the other side. Perfect! I passed through the lower part of Eus, one of the official most beautiful villages in France. It may well be, but it was at the top of a really big hill and I wasn't in the mood to climb it.

The view along D 618
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Looking up at Eus
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D 35 is much more pleasant than N 116.
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Before finding the municipal campground in Prades, I found the "Super U" which reminded me of Superstore in Canada. I went in to get a cold beer for after I was set up, but instead came out with to a prepackaged salad and a slice of quiche for dinner, plus a 25cl bottle of Grenache Cinsault (the only wine I found in that size). I was going to buy some muesli and some yogurt, but the quantities were big. I don't mind carrying some food, but tomorrow I'll go out for breakfast again.

Once again my Garmin shut itself off for no reason. Distance estimated.

A recreation of my route...
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Today's ride: 63 km (39 miles)
Total: 387 km (240 miles)

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