June 9, 2023
Vieste
The Gargano Peninsula is decidedly worth more time than we have, so if you ever make it this way I suggest you stay for a few days. The tourism industry here in Vieste began in the 60’s and from our first impressions, they get top marks for tastefully managing tourism. It’s evident from what we have seen that the citizens truly care about their small city (population about 14,000) and want to provide an authentic experience for their visitors.
Coming to terms with the human history of Vieste is hard enough, with its cave graffiti from the 3rd century BC and its megalithic walls dating back to 1000 BC. But, in the last 30 years numerous dinosaur prints have been found, reminding us this is where the behemoths roamed in the late Jurassic and the Cretaceous period. Paleontologist have had to re-write the history of this region based on what they have found. Then, there are the Tremiti Islands, just 12 miles from the coast that are said to be the among most beautiful islands in the Mediterranean. Take that with your morning cappuccino!
We are going easy today and have decided to see the coastline up close and personal by hiring a skipper to take us out for a 2 hour tour in a small zodiac. Now, sit right back and I’ll tell a tale of a two-hour tour...
As we left the harbour we passed by a trabucco, or fishing machine, jutting out from the rocky shoreline. There are many trabucchi along the Gargano Peninsula, part of its cultural heritage. This particular one is still in use.
Here’s how a trabucco works: wooden poles or ‘antennae’ made of Aleppo pine project out over the water and at the end of each antenna is a winch with a cable connected to a large net below, the trabocchetto. The net is submerged for a time, then raised quickly when the fish are spotted. The fishermen, or trabuccolanti, scoop up the fish and then the steps are repeated. It takes four men to operate a trabucco.
We didn't do this, but you can stop by in the morning to watch it in action and see the daily catch.
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On a small island just off the port sits the Vieste Lighthouse. In 1987, a cave was discovered on the island with Greek and Latin inscriptions dating from about the 3rd century BC and continuing to the 20th century. Archeologists are uncovering the story told by passing sailors and inhabitants through these inscriptions. Some of the inscriptions ask for protection during a journey or give thanks for it during attacks while others document a presence, an ‘I was here’ message. The inscriptions cover a period of almost 2500 years and are evidence that this was an important stopping point for ships plying the eastern Medterranean trade routes.
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We thoroughly enjoyed our zodiac tour with Stefano who told us he used to come here with his father. He felt connected to the sea and to this coastline in particular. He knew every nook and cranny and we felt lucky to have him skipper for us as he took us into just about every one of them. It was magical.
When we returned to the port office, Stephano’s boss asked how the tour was. David said ‘it was great, but the skipper could have done a better job’, which brought on peals of laughter from everyone, including Stephano. They told us we needed to come back and take a three hour tour next time. Then, Stephano would not have to wait around for his lunch. As I said earlier, the simplest of experiences can lead to smiles all around.
Back on Land
We returned to the B&B for an afternoon rest and a strategy session for the remainder of the trip. The weather apps indicated that rain is headed our way, so we had to decide how much riding we still wanted to do. In any case, we needed to be in Naples on the third day. Out came the Michelin map! We played out several ideas and, along with some train research on the Trenitalia site, we came up with a plan that we both liked.
By then, it was happy hour so we headed out in search of liquid replacement therapy. We’d seen many restaurants in the centro storico last night so we headed in that direction, taking the main staircase right outside our B&B. The 135 steps of the staircase have been painted in white and red and made into an art exhibit, named the Scala di Amore, or Stairway of Love. On the steps of this unique staircase is the text of the song ‘The Legend of Pizzomuno and Cristalda’, which is about the legend of the white limestone monolith adjacent to the cliffs at the south entrance of town. It’s said that if you walk along the steps with a loved one, you will remain united forever. This romantic legend makes Vieste "the city of love".
I find legends confusing at the best of times, but tourists seemed to really like having their photos taken here. A photo op is also good for taking a rest and looking out at the view, as this is one serious set of steps! People like us like to take up the challenge to march to the top without breaking our stride or huffing and puffing.😜
We settled on a restaurant at the top of the steps with a view over the harbour. Dinner was bruschettas and pasta with seafood in a yellow tomato sauce. I just managed to get a picture of the last bruschetta before we inhaled it.
After dinner, we strolled out through the old city to take in the buzz of people shopping in all the small boutique shops and take in views back to the Pizzumunno. I stopped in at one of the vendors selling local products and bought my favourite souvenir, some local Puglia olive oil.
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