Maratea to Scalea

May 19, 2023

One thing cycle touring does for you is make you sleep like a bear in winter. At least that’s the case for me. I usually write in the evening but I keep nodding off, doing faceplants into my iPad. I will give it a go and see if I can get this one out before I nod off.

Our host, Christina, served us a wonderful breakfast this morning and hung out with us while we ate, sharing stories of her family and her B&B. She was born and raised in Maratea and co-habits with her mother who was also born here. Her English is very good which she said came from her schooling and working at a four star hotel. She finds these morning chats with her guests a highlight of running the B&B. She was heading off to work after hanging out with us. It is such a pleasure to meet people like Christina in these 2-wheeled adventures.

We could see as far as Palinuro this morning.

Christ the Redeemer statue. We won’t be visiting it today.

We pushed off after trucking our bikes down the steep staircase from the B&B and loading up the panniers. It was a real treat to coast down the long hill to the train station. Christina had told us about the landslide on the highway between Marina de Maratea and Scalea that had happened last December so we were prepared to take the train this morning. We could have taken it all the way to Scalea but we opted to get off at the first stop after the slide so we could ride the rest of the way.

The next train didn’t leave for an hour so I used the time to do some writing.

Not so modern train station. We had to carry our gear to get to the departure binario. No elevator here.

It was an 8 minute train ride to Praia a Mare, where we exited the train and headed straight for the shoreline. From all appearances, this town is a summer playland for families. There are campgrounds all along the lungomare and crews were busy erecting cabanas where beach goers will hang out to drink and eat and enjoy themselves. We mused about the mobile sauna owner who could not even park his vehicle at Willows beach this spring even though people were loving it after their icy cold dips.

The ride to Scalea was pretty much straightforward and didn't take us very long. We stayed on the state road which was the right thing to do. As we passed overhead the twisty coastal road, we saw that it too, had become a victim of a slide. Had we gone that way, we may not have gotten through.

We cruised in to Scalea and easily found our B&B. Hooray for that. Our host was not responding to any messages so we decided to stop for a panini lunch at a Sicilian restaurant on the pedestrian mall nearby. A fellow diner came and chatted with us and told us we wouldn’t do any better in Scalea than to eat at this very restaurant. She and her husband have moved here from Texas and call in on this restaurant regularly.

When we finished noshing on our paninis, we headed over to the B&B. This was our first experience with an absentee host (communication via Whatsapp) and a self-check for entry (i.e. a lockbox). We are not fond of either, but are not sure how to avoid booking these. In any event, the facility is very nice and the location is perfect.

After a quick cleanup, we took a stroll up to the medieval village and took a few photos. Scalea is considered to be the earliest known place to be populated in Italy. It struggles economically and has for a very long time, taking in more subsidies than it generates in income.

Wish I knew the story of this figure on a door to one of the houses.

Stonework on this staircase was distinct and striking.

The arches provided extra structural support.

We headed back to the beach for a drink before dinner. A friend of the owner can over to chat with us. He spoke Englishi and told us that he lives in Mallorca and works for Rafael Nadal at his tennis academy, where he is a tennis coach. He is here for a week to take a break from tennis and to rest. No tennis balls for a week, he exclaimed!

We headed back to the Sicilian restaurant for dinner and were treated to one of the best, if not the best, dinners so far. The pictures will speak for themselves.

Pasta with mushroom, sausage and cherry tomatoes.

Tomorrow, we tackle the mountains of the Pollino National park. I am praying for decent weather.

Today's ride: 20 km (12 miles)
Total: 210 km (130 miles)

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Anne AnastasiouGlad the train connection worked. Fingers crossed for good weather for the mountains.
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