Tessera with a Side of Treviso
Tessara, Venezia
The first night’s sleep following a transcontinental flight is often like a flickering light bulb. It’s off, then it’s on, and then off again. Usually, I awake anywhere between 3am and 5am and that’s all the sleep I can manage. Last night, I made it to 5:30 but my body felt very tired so I did my shavasana relaxation routine and managed to make it to 8am.
Surprisingly, when I showered and dressed, all the tiredness cleared and I felt ready for the day. It sure helps when you have a clean and cozy place to sleep, without any external noises. This place delivers in every way. It’s a flower farm, with tall greenhouses in which they grow plants and flowers for weddings and large events.
The grounds are immaculate and bursting with climbing roses, grapevines, jasmine, ivy and honeysuckle. Being on the Venezia plain, there are water features as well with mountain-fresh water burbling out of spouts into ponds. Accommodations include a hotel-style farm building, glamping cottages and a paddock-styled building where we are staying.
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Public transportation for the win
We always enjoy using public transit when we’re in Europe. It works, it’s inexpensive and it’s a way of mingling with locals. Our plan for today is to jump on a train to make our way 35k north to Treviso where the Giro d’Italia will be starting Stage 14. The bus stop is near the driveway of the Agriturismo, so it was super convenient to public transportation.
The full farm-style breakfast served in the Hare Room at the Venicegreen turned out to be a great way to recharge our depleted batteries. They offered everything you could possibly want, and even more tempations after that. Cheesecake, anyone? Afterwards, we bought bus tickets from reception and were on our way by bus to the Mestre train station. From there we’d hop a train the Treviso.
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All eyes are on Treviso today
The transportation went well and we arrived with adequate time to stroll the old town to the Giro festivities.
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We quickly found a street-side position for the rider check-in. That’s when every rider cruises along the barricaded route, riding at their own pace and time, to officially sign in for the race each day. Then they ride casually back to the staging point. It’s a great way to see these young men up close and personal. What they accomplish on two wheels every single day is truly mind-blowing. They are clear reminders that we are each capable of more than we give ourselves credit for.
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2 weeks ago
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By 12:45, the riders were all assembled in a square in the old city of Treviso and the 14th stage of the Giro was called and underway. It’s led out with a procession, starting with the police, race officials and media, all on motorcycles, followed by the Race Commissaire’s official car, the riders themselves, and lastly the Team cars (two per team) and Sponsor Support vehicles, the ambulance vehicles and the Lantern Rouge vehicle (the riders must stay ahead of this car). The pace is held by the motorcycles for the first 12k today, then they peel away and the racing begins. We love seeing this race. The energy and excitement is palpable everywhere, from the riders, the sponsors and fans of all generations.
We were thrilled to see the leaders ride past us and that included Derek Gee of Canada, who now sits in sixth place overall. He loves the mountains so we will be expecting some exciting action from him in the coming days. We will be keeping tabs on the racing whenever we can, but it will all be on TV or internet from here on.
Bike Friday assembly
David’s task today is to assemble the bikes for tomorrow morning, so once the Giro had left town, we were our way back to Mestre, then to Tessera. We knew we had better eat something en route or risk fading out entirely, so we dropped in to a bar beside the Mestre train station for a drink and a shared panini while we waited for the next bus.
While David assembled the bikes, I tended to some reservation emails and re-imbursement for the flight delay yesterday. Than I strolled the property to visit the farm animals and birds and the greenhouses and gardens.
Time was ticking and by the time the bikes were all assembled, we were ready for dinner. I found a restaurant/brewery about a 20 minute walk away from us, down a small country road. It was a beautiful evening for a stroll, the only sounds were the Eurasian blackbird that was singing his heart out from the tree-tops.
Dinner was a shared caprese salad, with a lasagne for me and a maccheroni amatriciana for David. It was the best lasagne I’ve ever had. Amatrichina was also delicious. And, of course we sampled the beer. Delicious and thirst quenching.
We topped the day off with a leisurely stroll back to our room, as the sun set behind us.
Tomorrow, we head out on the Fridays for a short ride to Treviso, the radicchio capital of Italy.
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Maccheroni Pasta: A type of tubular pasta, similar to macaroni, typically cut into short lengths.
Amatriciana Sauce: This sauce is made with guanciale, tomatoes, Pecorino Romano cheese, and sometimes chili flakes or onions.
Pecorino Romano Cheese: A hard, salty sheep's milk cheese, used to finish the dish.
Guanciale: Cured pork cheek, often sliced and cooked in the sauce.
Tomatoes: Either fresh or canned, forming the base of the sauce.
Chili Flakes (optional): Add a touch of heat to the dish.
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