Santo Stefano

May 28, 2025

You can’t make this up!

Travel is downright a privilege, there is no doubt about that. And, what I’m getting at with that title is that you never know what you are about to experience each day. You prepare a plan, read, research the areas you will go, and then it unfolds in unpredictable ways that you just couldn’t imagine. That is how the travel bug works, it’s simple but compelling, and leaves us wanting more. There must be some dopamine involved in the equation, as well, plus some endorphins from the effort we expend in getting around in two wheels.

Today was a full day, full of fantastic experiences right up to the time I usually write this journal. I opened up my I pad at 10:30, took one look at the blank journal page, then my head hit the pillow and I was out like a light. Writing was not an option. So, here goes, before we head down for breakfast.

We woke to sunshine and a light breeze in Serravalle. Alessandra explained how it is usually windy here. It makes sense because it is a north-south slot in the otherwise east-west mountains, so provides a chute for any weather system. We had another nice breakfast with cappucchino’s and Canadiana coffees from her new Illy espresso machine. After a photo, we pushed off, direction Santo Stefano which is situated in the Prosecco Hills, designated a Unesco Heritage site.

Alessandra has been a wonderful host, a font of helpful knowledge and a hoot to chat with. We love supporting local businesses like hers.

A short distance north, we took the turnoff to the west to cycle along the Strada del Prosecco. It is the first wine road proclaimed, in 1966. Then, in 2019, it was designated a Unesco World Heritage site. The thickly forested hills gradually give way to vineyards as you head west and the geology changes from a valley, rich in agriculture, to a series of small but steep hills draped in vineyards dotting the landscape. It has a very intimate feeling, where the grapes are the foundation of everything that happens here.

This is just one of several beautiful lakes in the area, spots for the locals to relax and enjoy nature.

Lilies are just starting to bloom on Lago Santa Maria.

A-climbing we will go

The route I had planned for today was basically a straight east-west line with a little T on it. I had forgotten what the T was in the days leading up to this and took it as a slip of the finger when building the route. But, oh, no. This was the Passo San Boldo and I just couldn’t pass up the chance for a climb up to the galleries.

San Boldo is also known as the 100 day road and its fame is linked to the speed with which it was built during the First World War: in just 100 days, the Austro-Hungarian army, with the help of prisoners and local people, dug five tunnels through the rock, creating an unprecedented engineering feat. It’s unimaginable to think of the efforts and conditions for those who chipped away at the rock. Here’s the close-up of it (not my photo).

Today, it is a link to Belluno, to the north, but it’s not exactly an efficient way to go shopping for milk and bread. According to the visitdolimitibellunisi website, “the most trained and daring can ride it by bike, in the footsteps of the legendary Jacques Anquetil who, during the 1966 Giro d'Italia, devoured it, followed closely by the Pink Jersey of a very young Gianni Motta. Almost 6 km for 451 m of elevation gain with an average gradient of 7.5% make this road one of the most challenging in the Prealps.” That’s right up my alley!

Riding tough climbs demands a certain mindset and if it’s not there, you can’t really enjoy the climb. I’d read about this one months ago and felt I just had to do it. David wasn’t as keen so he stayed with my bags while I zipped (ok, I didn’t zip, more like gasped my way) up to turn #8 to see the historic galleries. After a short rest, I cruised back down to turn #18, practising my cornering in the hairpin bends.

I rode up just to corner #8 where I could see the galleries, a 27 minute ride.

Descending back to turn 18 of the San Boldo pass.

Happy camper, having just bagged some endorphins.

As we continued westward, we rode along the small service roads through the vineyards in the valley floor. It really was idyllic cycle touring, accompanied by the songs from the Eurasian blackbirds and the Eurasian collared doves and other assorted feathered friends. The one that I love hearing is the cuckoo bird, especially when I’m riding up those tough grades…coo-coo, coo-coo, coo-coo. It’s right, of course.

Just a random castle, actually it’s Castel Brando. It is now a hotel. In any case, it’s breathtaking to come upon scenes like this.

Beautiful church along the way, on a small country lane.

Gradually, the grades increased as we neared Miane, where we noticed a distinct transition to a new geological zone. Just beyond here is where the Prosecco hills begin. I caught a glimpse of Miane in my rearview mirror after passing through, and stopped for a picture, looking back at it.

A little further on was Combai.

Combai, with more context of the surrounding area.

Next came Guia, where we could now see across the unique wine-producing hills. The grape vines are looking very healthy, with new growth sproinging from the main stocks and teeny tiny grape clusters dripping from the new stems. The steepness of the slopes is quite stunning and the vineyards seem to be oriented in all sorts of directions, making it a feast for the eyes.

We dropped down steeply from the main road to find our accommodation for the next two nights. La Valdella just happens to be a Prosecco winery with a B&B, which I did not know when I booked it. Soon after we were seated at the gazebo, Anneliese came out with two bottles of Prosecco and a bottle of sparkling water. Our Prosecco education started then and there! She explained all about the vineyards sprawled out in front of us. The immediate vicinity is known as Cartizze. The soil, wind and the sun exposure in this tiny region makes for some unique and exclusive wines. She explained that they do all their harvesting by hand here (the terrain and the laws demand it) and they produce their Prosecco wine from 100% Glera grapes. By law, Prosecco can contain 15% less expensive grapes. Then came a light snack of fresh buns with sopressa sausage. We felt like a royal pair, let me tell you.

Eventually, we peeled ourselves out of our chairs and went to our room-with-a-killer-view where we hung out for a bit and made plans for dinner at a nearby restaurant.

The day had already been amazing, but what we experienced here made our jaws drop. The skies ahead clouded over and became very heavy by the time we arrived at the restaurant, a five minute walk up the hill, we knew we were in for some thunder and lightning. We sat outside with our Puglia beers, waiting for the 7:30pm seating. About then, we heard a loud explosion nearby. Then another and another. Even more explosions followed. Very wierd, we thought. Should we be concerned? The waiter came out to seat is and shrugged it off, saying they were making wine. OK, how is this connected? It turns out, they seed the clouds when they are just ripe enough, to force more water out of them. It’s the water draining through the clay soil that releases the minerals for the roots of the grape vines, so they do this to increase the wine production.

Not long after that, the winds picked up and it started to rain. By that time, we had ordered the house specialty, a t-bone steak and had chosen our bottle of wine from the walk-in wine cellar, a bottle of Barolo from Dogliani. The steaks were grilled over the coals in the enormous fireplace. They also serve hamburgers, if you wish.

Din-din, on the grill. Which one do you think is ours?

We waddled home, fully satiated, having had the largest feast of red meat in eons, washed down with a beautiful red wine. What more could anyone want?

Dinner was sublime. The best steak I have had or will likely ever have.

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Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 157 km (97 miles)

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