Feltre

June 1, 2025

We woke to yet another gorgeous sunny day. Our route was quite straightforward: cross the covered bridge, turn right and keep travelling north, keeping the Brenta river on our right. There was one major turn at the top of the valley, when we would change course and head in an easterly direction toward Feltre.

It was the weather we all dream of for cycle touring, namely sunny, pleasant temps and a light tailwind. Since it was Sunday, locals were out recreating in big numbers. That meant lots of cyclists, groups playing soccer, walkers, hikers and many others enjoying leisurely and competitive water sports on the river. It was great to see so many people actively enjoying the day. The majority of the bikers were on non-motorized, sport bikes and there were many clubs riding together.

Our day started with a breakfast spread out in the garden at our B&B, Le 33. Julie, the owner, is a pastry chef and used to hold cooking classes in the big kitchen. She also published a cookbook of her favourite recipes during covid. As we entered the garden, her dog Kira welcomed us. Julie had laid out fresh fruit, including bing cherries and strawberries, home made bread, butter, wedges of Asiago cheese, home made scones, and a bowl of red and yellow cherry tomatoes. Then came the Greek yogurt with homemade muesli and the scrambled eggs, fruit juice and coffee. I’ll never tire of these morning rituals, and I can tell you, it’s a far stretch from our usual breakfast of cereal with fruit and yogurt at home!

Sculpture in Bassano del Grappa, and, more importantly, the central doggie tap/fountain.

The Brenta river flows clear and cold. Veggie gardens are doing very well.

The riverside walkways were popular with the walkers and the dogs.

The river is not deep, just perfect for fly fishing, rafting and kayaking.

Me and bike paths are not the best of friends. Like so many, this one abruptly stopped shortly after it started. It sent us down a grassy trail to join up with the main trail.

Looking north, through the narrowing gap between the mountains.

So much beauty. It was such a pleasure to ride here.

Just over my shoulder is the white water slalom course. There were dozens of participants in today’s competition. It was so exciting to watch, we neglected to take any photos. Check out the video.

These rafters were having a gret time, bouncing down the river.

Our first Bici Bar, where you can enjoy a light snack or drink. Prosecco and beer with pretzels were popular.

We eventually had to leave the Brenta cycle way and head east. We navigated a few tangled roadways to make our way to the opposite side of the highway and there we found our new roadway. This road immediately headed steeply upward. Along the way we found several waterfalls, which cooled the air as we passed slowly by. The grade was very do-able and topped out after about 8 switchbacks. From there, we entered the Valbelluna in the province of Belluno, I think. I will have a clearer picture as we explore a little more.

The riding continued to be just fabulous, to use a worn out term. I’m running out of ways to describe this. The roads were very lightly travelled and in excellent shape. We passed through a few small villages, and being Sunday, they were incredibly quiet. In one small village, we passed a woman on a three speed bike who had a dour look on her face until David waved to her. She gave us the biggest smile and wave imaginable.

We were in no hurry to get to Feltre, so we pulled up at a roadside bar for a short break. People were either drinking aperol spritzes or Prosecco. These are incredibly popular drinks here. We settled for lemon sodas and we shared an ice-cream bar. We feel like lightweights when it comes to lunch, but it’s no holds barred when it comes to breakfast and these really do hold us over.

Our route continued along the small paved roadways through the fields and soon we began noticing signs that said we were on the via Claudia Augusta, a well known, well travelled cycle way that takes riders along the easiest route through the Alps to the Po valley. It is 753 kilometres long, runing along the old Roman road, a historic cultural and trade route from the River Danube through stunning mountain scenery to the Adriatic Sea. Check this link to learn more about the Via Claudia Augusta, a ride that is suitable for riders of all abilities and ages.

Soon after that, we entered Feltre. We had arrived an hour before my ETA, so I Whatsapp’ed our host and she met us at the B&B in the old city. We settled in for awhile, then wandered out to explore the town, eventually stopping for a slice of pizza and a Moretti beer in the main piazza, a stone’s throw from our B&B.

The town was very quiet but started to come alive at the dinner hour. We went to a hip place that served burgers and Mexican food. The walls were plastered with old movie posters and their playlist was top notch. An aside about music, for some reason, the musicians and songs we love in North America just haven’t landed in the places we travel to in Europe. Instead, their music is ambient noise with a pop beat that they seem non-plussed about. If we do hear a fantastic Norah Jones or Tom Petty or Sting or, name that band or musician, they shrug their shoulders and seem to be unfamiliar with it. That’s a huge generalization, but what we have found and continue to find. So, when we hear good tunes, we love it! Does the theme song for ‘Take 30’ count? Well, yes it does… a very jazzy saxophone tune.

Taco’s for David. We could have shared this one!

We are here for two nights, giving us a day to catch up on laundry and explore the area.

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Today's ride: 55 km (34 miles)
Total: 346 km (215 miles)

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Patty BarronQuite an exceptional ride along the ledge over the river, with rock-fall netting overtop! Wild!
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