To Massafra

April 20, 2023

Checkout is at ten, and by 9:30 we’re already getting packed up and starting the process of getting our bikes and gear down to the street. There are few stairs involved, so that’s not the issue. Our B&B is a sparkling clean place that doesn’t really accommodate bikes. We’re grateful that our host let us bring our wet folders inside and want to make sure we leave the place as clean as we left it. I’m just walking down the stairs barefoot carrying out the second bike when she arrives, and she looks appreciatively at the obvious care we’re taking to keep the dirt on the right side of the door.

We both look up at this morning’s blue skies with approval, she wishes us well, and we’re off.

We don’t get far. Near the edge of town Rachael pulls us off to the sidewalk so she can check the emails to make sure she knows what’s expected by this evening’s host. While she’s standing there she looks up and sees that by chance we’re stopped by a Trek store. On the hope that they’ll have rain boots that will fit over her new bike shoes (she recently discovered that the ones she has won’t) she walks across the street to check it out.

She comes back with new boots, excited at what excellent service she received. The drainage system might be terrible in Grottiglie, but in our brief experience we think the people are terrific here.

What are the chances they’ll have rain boots in her size? Probably pretty good, really - it’s a town that obviously calls for the right footwear.

We have a short, leisurely ride ahead today. The first third of it is almost a repeat of the start of yesterday’s loop, but on a road that parallels the one I rode and Rachael hiked part of. For the first several miles she keeps looking for familiar landmarks, trying to determine whether she’s on yesterday’s road (she’s not). Yesterday’s ride was fine (on the dry half of it, of course), but today’s is better. We’re just a little further north and closer to the base of the ridge I scaled yesterday, and it’s a little wilder and less cultivated - more green, less greenhouse.

We pass by a small ravine that neither of us recognize from yesterday. Unsurprisingly, since we weren’t actually here then.

We’re on a somewhat wilder traverse than yesterday, closer to the base of the ridge ahead.

This shot made the cut because it shows the course of the ascent on yesterday’s ride. You can see it slashing diagonally up the ridge on the far left, before doubling back and angling to the top in the other direction.

I don’t know what this is. Might be a castle, Kelly.

Ten miles into the ride, and now we really are on my route from yesterday but going in the opposite direction. Then, I was heads down descending into the rain, watching anxiously at the lightning strikes ahead and ruefully whizzing past a phenomenal flower display that I regretted not being able to stop for photographs of. It’s great to be here again for a proper look.

Yes, this would have been worth stopping for yesterday if it hadn’t been raining so hard.

Finally we’re west of yesterday’s ride and in new terrain, but it’s still the same attractive country as we gradually climb along the base of this ridge we’ve been riding beneath. At the end we cut through a gap in it up a short but steep ascent that surprises us by stiffening to 14% at the top.

A split olive. Looks like it’s been riven by a lightning strike. That could have been me!

Looks like it must have been a fine place to live at one time.

We’re passed by that speedier guy, charging away powered by his e-assist. He’ll turn left before the base of the climb though. I wonder how steep it’s going to be, anyway?

From the top we get an expansive view south to the Ionian Sea and east across the broad basin that Massafra lies at the bottom of. It’s all downhill the rest of the way, a fast ride on a busier road that carries more traffic than we’d wish. We especially dislike it when we hear a warning toot of the horn from the rear just before a mammoth truck races past distressingly close to our shoulders. There’s just the one driver like this though, an aberration from the normally very considerate ones we’ve experienced here.

Looking south across Crispiano toward Taranto and the Ionian Sea.

When I first looked ahead across this basin I wondered if that might be Matera on the knoll opposite, but it’s too near. That’s Mottola, known as ‘the spy of Ionia’ for its prominent view across the region.

Video sound track: Lo stadio, by Tiziano Ferro

Massafra is an interesting place, though I think not one that sees much tourism. It’s split in half by a deep ravine. We’re staying at a B&B in the historical center on the northern half of town: Casa Camilla, an appealing place that bills itself as the first B&B in the historical center.

Casa Camilla has a rooftop patio with a broad if cluttery view across the town.

This one is thoughtfully placed on the landing of the steep, narrow staircase up to the breakfast room, in case you need a break on the way.

We’ll look at the historical center tomorrow, but for today we walk across the narrow bridge spanning the ravine to the new town where most of the restaurants are. We leave about an hour before any will be open and spend it exploring the most interesting part of this half, a small neighborhood built against the side of the ravine.

In the historical center. Most of the streets re like this, or narrower. Most of them support cars too, so you have to pay attention.

The view down the ravine, looking at the south (newer) side of town. Most of the following photos were taken in that brightly whitewashed set of structures to the right.

Another view up the ravine, looking at the historical center.

Chiesa di Maria Santissima delMonte Carmelo.

Massafra Castle, in the historical center, viewed from across the ravine.

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Ride stats today: 24 miles, 900’; for the tour: 644 miles, 34,900’

Today's ride: 24 miles (39 km)
Total: 644 miles (1,036 km)

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Kelly IniguezYou only have two panniers each and you have room for booties? I know they aren't large, but I'm still impressed!
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11 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Kelly IniguezWe actually have a lot of carrying capacity and nice side pockets for carrying all our rain gear.
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11 months ago

Janice BranhamI'm glad to see a sun-washed day for you after the soaking in Grottaglie
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11 months ago

Rachael AndersonTo Janice BranhamIt was great!
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11 months ago