Lisbon to Sebutal - Poking Around Europe 7.0 - CycleBlaze

September 8, 2022

Lisbon to Sebutal

Well That was Interesting!!!

it feels like the tour has really begun. Thank goodness for Keith’s brilliant idea of an unloaded shakedown ride yesterday. We checked out the ferry terminal then and had a lock on how to get there. Should have looked more carefully at the schedule though. 

It was quite a ride for me. I rode in my regular shoes yesterday in case we did some walking - we didn’t- but today I had on my trusty bike shoes. A mistake, at least so far. Those limestone and basalt cobbles, slippery at the best of times, are incredibly treacherous when the shoe clip hits them. I felt like Bambi on ice. It would have been very embarrassing or worse to go down while walking the bike. Fortunately that crisis didn’t happen but we arrived at the ferry terminal having just missed the ferry. We were both okay with it. We had a short day planned and it gave us an hour breather after the ride down the hill. Riding in Lisbon is interesting. There are some great bike lanes but a lot of inattentive  people, on foot, in cars and especially on e scooters. At one point this morning I watched as Keith stood over his bike and a fellow on his phone didn’t see him until the absolute last second. I am pretty sure Keith was going to let him walk into his bike. 

The lovely ladies at the hotel wishing us safe riding and fair weather.
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Down the hill we go.
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If people aren’t on the scooters they are often like this.
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Scott AndersonLooks like street art.
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenIt does! The scooters are so popular and well used in Lisbon.
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1 year ago

The ferry ride was uneventful and not busy. A quick twenty minutes and we popped out on the other side, ready for our quick ride to Sebutal. 

We were hoping this was our ferry. Fortunately it was.
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We were hoping this wasn’t our ferry!
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BC Ferries could learn a thing or two from this set up, complete with Velcro straps to keep the bikes secure.
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Jacquie GaudetI'm not so sure about that! If there was a third bike with panniers, I don't think it would fit. But it's a lot better than the wheel-bender racks BC Ferries has put in (and which I don't use if my bike is loaded).
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenWe hate those wheel bender racks and also refuse to use them, loaded or unloaded. The Coho has them as well and that ride gets really wild more frequently as you are much more exposed. We won’t use those racks even on dry land.
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1 year ago

Well, that short day became very interesting about five km after the ferry where we had planned to hook up to the Eurovelo 1 route.   Our routing became somewhat confused in Seixal and we spent considerable time trying to figure out how to get where we were going. The plan had been to follow EV 1  for a bit, then veer off and head more or less straight (in a tacking fashion) to Sebutal rather than the circuitous route around the peninsula. We were stymied by the intersecting busy highway. This is uncharacteristic behaviour for us, as the CN has the navigation part of the experience down to a fine science. Not today though. We were going in circles and finally ended up hoofing it up a steep hill past a giant shopping Center to avoid the freeway. Finally on our way and feeling confident (misplaced confidence as it turned out) we decided to take a break at a little bakery. 

It started so well.
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There were these bike lane issues.
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And the scenery most tourists miss out on.
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 The first incident after our break was me aware that something was not right with my bike. I whistled for Keith as my rear tire was so low it was making that unfortunate whap whap on the pavement. It seemed to me it came on suddenly, but ever the optimists we pumped that sucker up and crossed our fingers. It is still holding as I write this, so perhaps we are going to be lucky. 

The chief tire inflator thinks he may not have fully inflated this tire on arrival in Lisbon. I am not so sure. I certainly didn’t notice anything yesterday, but I didn’t have all that weight on the back tire then either.
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David MathersA new title...Chief Tire Inflator!
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1 year ago
Steve Miller/GrampiesTo David MathersOr, more casually, Inflator in Chief.
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1 year ago

Keith had decided at our break to let his Guru app generate a route rather  than the route he had planned, as that route hadn’t been going well. Things seemed to be fine until we were instructed to take a sandy off road track. We decided to continue on the current road, which turned out to be a dead end. At least it was downhill back to the sandy track. We went for it, both pushing our bikes because it was unrideable and with lots of time to contemplate the scenery. We had found the local unauthorized, but well used, dump. Then came the mad dash across the next road…so much traffic, so few opportunities to cross. 

Lovely track, isn’t it?
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Kathleen ClassenSand is so tricky. You can’t see (or at least I can’t) where it is deeper and going to grab your rear wheel.
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1 year ago
Lots to look at while pushing one’s bike through the sand.
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A very brief bit of pavement.
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Once more we were lulled into a false sense of security. Until we were routed onto a lovely road which suddenly became gravel - rideable - and then absolute crap. It was deep oily I don’t know what, and we were walking the bikes again. We have never experienced a surface like it. 

Fortunately there were some roadside workers and Keith asked for suggestions. He told us not to continue on the oily mess ( his description of it was colourful) and gave us clear directions- left, right, left - and we were on our way. There was still a sandy track to deal with, but it was rideable and then suddenly we were on pavement again. 

We have no idea what this was about and we’re forced to walk again. It felt ankle deep. The roadside worker declared it undriveable too.
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Last sandy track of the day. This actually was quite reasonable compared to what had come before.
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From there it was mostly smooth sailing. Some construction, some narrow spots, but the drivers were very considerate. We went through several areas which suffered in this years fires. You can still smell it. Pretty sobering stuff. We stopped briefly at the top of the final hill into Sebutal and what to our wondering eyes should appear on the other side of the road?   A glorious bike lane, which took us almost to the door of our hotel. 

Construction does mean long stretches of no cars as they come in groups due to the alternating lanes.
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Fire ravaged hillside.
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More fire damage.
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Happiness is a bike lane at the end of the day.
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When we arrived at our fabulous boutique hotel the young woman who checked us in made our day. We instantly fell for her, for the guard dog looking after our bikes and for the town. So much to see. We have decided to spend another night so we can really appreciate the place. In keeping with today’s experiences this spot is fully booked, so we are moving across the street tomorrow. 

This young woman has a bright future.
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Guard dog taking care of the bikes.
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Our lovely room in the RM Guesthouse.
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I want one of these! The most adorable electric car I have ever seen.
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We have been out for tapas and have had some pretty good laughs tonight. Definitely type two fun today. I told Keith that if that had been my first day bike touring there might never have been a second. We are so much more confident now, and when things go sideways, cope so well together. We are very lucky. 

Strava shows 58 km, but 8 were on the ferry.
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The Relive makes it all look so easy!

https://www.relive.cc/view/vwq1BWLNoLv

Today's ride: 50 km (31 miles)
Total: 95 km (59 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 15
Comment on this entry Comment 10
Jane KyleDefinitely an interesting day, complete with every kind of surface! Glad to hear you're on your way!
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1 year ago
Scott FenwickNot the easiest day to get back into touring mode but they will get bet ....lots better. The coast of Portugal is fantastic! If the CN wants a bit more data on some possible routings -- here are some rides that Pat and I took last November - (I notice one day is missing) . Hope it works. https://ridewithgps.com/collections/56745?otu=&privacy_code=8Iphd3a9n9Qf2I8x

We loved this short tour so much we might even repeat it.

Scott
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1 year ago
Scott AndersonWell, this looks like it’s going to be a very interesting tour! Some folks get all the fun.
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1 year ago
Rachael Anderson25 years ago when we ended a tour in Lisbon, we had a horrible time. Sorry you had such bad road surfaces and issues with navigation! You are such good sports! Scott Fenwick is right about the coast being very beautiful!
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Rachael AndersonWe both find that a less than stellar day on the bikes is still more fun than just about anything. Sebutal is gorgeous and we will do some exploring around here today.
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Scott AndersonAt was a most unusual day for us thank goodness!
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Jane KyleWe really laughed when it was all over.
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1 year ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Scott FenwickThat is encouraging. We have loved Portugal so far, even yesterday. We felt fortunate yesterday that we had some cloud cover in the early part of the day, so while the surfaces slowed us down, at least the sun wasn’t too hot. Temperatures so far have been perfect. Checking out your link now.
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1 year ago
ann and steve maher-wearyYou guys are hard core! We tried to figure out a more direct way to Setubal instead of the circuitous route around the peninsula and were not successful so after the ferry we hopped the train to Setubal. So impressed with you that you persevered and succeeded! Way to go! We are going to enjoy following your blog to see the route you chose. Happy sailing.
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1 year ago
Valerie BakerNow that was a classic bad, ugly good day!! These are the most memorable upon reflection, the most fun 🤩
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1 year ago