Évora

October 20, 2022

A Last Minute Dash to Some Ancient Stones

What a day this has been. We have laughed our way through it, and early in the day I was thinking this would be a pretty short journal entry. We started out by staring out the window in the breakfast room in bemusement. It was bucketing. We have had glorious weather this tour, so we aren’t complaining.

Portugal really needs the rain, so it is hard to be unhappy about this. We had such an amazing run of beautiful weather.

We studied our weather apps. Were we thinking if we looked at enough we would find a more favourable forecast? Not likely! So over breakfast we made the call that we would take the train to Sintra tomorrow. First though, we walked into town and bought an inexpensive umbrella. We figure it will pay for itself over the next few days. Keith also noticed a bucket hat for me, and that made a huge difference. It is too big, but I didn’t care. It worked like a charm to keep my hood on my head in the wind. Oh, did I forget to mention the wind??? Off we went to the train station, seeing more of the less touristy Évora. Our visit to the train station was a success and we have our tickets. A big 6.50 Euro each. A bargain. We said we are seniors and he asked for identification! That was flattering. We fished out our driver’s licences and he pointed out that Keith’s expires on October 25th. We knew that before we left, but had completely forgotten, so we really appreciated the reminder.

I had just been close to puddle splashed here and Keith tried to catch the next car going through, but this thoughtful driver avoided the puddle. Less dramatic picture but you get the idea.

Another reflective shot, this time in the hotel window. I took off those soaking wet leggings immediately when we were in the room. When I went out again I was wearing my light rain pants instead. Should have had them on in the first place.

We decided to go to the local laundromat and throw in a load of laundry. What an exciting day we were having. And then it stopped raining. There was about a four hour window between 3 PM and 7 PM. Hmmmmmm.

All the tourist brochures here talk about the Almendres Megalithic Site. Our friend Jane mentioned it in an email. We had been hoping to ride out to see it today but it had been so wet. Keith wanted to go. I pointed out to Keith that the sun sets at 6:45 PM now, and while we have lights with us, they are lights to warn the cars we are there, not lights to illuminate the potholes if we get caught out on the highway in the dark. We knew that at a minimum it would be 38 kilometres round trip. Seemed to me the museum was a better idea. How did I get talked into the ride? We will be laughing about the experience for years.

We got going at 3:40 PM. We flew down the highway and it felt great. We were making excellent time and I stopped worrying about being back by 6:45. This was going to be a breeze. We even stopped for a photo.

This was lovely. It went over the road. There is a second route to Évora because buses and trucks can’t get under here.

We had turned right off the highway after about 10 kilometres. Keith had us turn left off the side road after Valverde up a sandy road. A CN shortcut. Not a great surface at that point, and it would get much worse. All uphill too. Suddenly we weren’t making the kind of progress we needed given the time of day. This road became so rough I am not sure even the most rugged of four by fours would make it up. It was certainly impassable by car. Unfortunately there are no pictures of the worst sections, we were both too busy pushing. I mentioned to Keith that this couldn’t possibly be right, but really, we were so far into it at that point there was no turning back. Then I started worrying about a flat. It was that kind of surface and that would have really had us in a pickle, and that was before the CN told me he brought everything he needed in that event, except he forgot the pump. Oops! I am glad I didn’t know that until much later. So we carried on, through the puddles, the rocks, the sand, the logging and past the cows.

This was the best part, right at the beginning. Not really a problem.

The rain created the odd unexpected portage.

Then there was the logging operation. Their heavy equipment might have been part of the reason the track was so bad.

Going up continuously. It always looks so flat in pictures.

Then we could see this gate. We were so hopeful as we approached that it wasn’t locked. It wasn’t!

Except then we could see the stones on the other side of a high fence with barbed wire at the top, and the next gate was locked, but look what I found just around the corner. Phew!

Through the gate, up to the stone circle and we both burst into laughter. Probably not appreciated by the only other person there who was clearly much more into it than we were. We did take a picture of the information board, and did appreciate it, really, we did, but after all that effort, it was pretty much, well, a circle of ancient stones. Clearly we aren’t deep enough thinkers.

Me hanging on to myself I was laughing so hard. On our way back down we passed many rocks that looked pretty similar to these.

They do look quite cool against that moody sky though.

The only other person there, sitting in the middle, bare feet, and clearly feeling something we weren’t. We left her to it.

The history of it, and the age make it interesting. If the scientists actually have it right!

Then of course, we went down the correct way. The CN informed me that we saved 3 kilometres going up the other way. Lost tons of time though!! The beginning of the road down wasn’t paved, but was infinitely superior to the way we took up. It was an actual road.

This is more like it. A little washboard, but otherwise just fine.

We hit the highway and just spun. We arrived back at the hotel a total of 41 kilometres later, and just as the rain began. We had an absolutely great time. It was so nice to be on the bikes. As Keith said when we got back, it probably wasn’t the smartest decision to set out when we did, but it worked out and we are glad we went.

We ordered pizza, enjoyed it in our room, and it is bikes and trains tomorrow. Always interesting, that. As I am finishing this up I can hear thunder. I love a good electrical storm when I am warm and dry and cosy.

https://www.relive.cc/view/vWqB3rJQDYv

Today's ride: 41 km (25 miles)
Total: 1,747 km (1,085 miles)

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Rich FrasierA day to remember! Great that you can laugh!
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1 year ago

Rachael AndersonYou sure know how to have fun!
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenTo Rich FrasierYou are right … we will remember that day. Felt foolish forgetting the pump. We packed up so quickly so we could get the ride in. And glad I only realized that going back about 12 kms from Evora.
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1 year ago

Keith ClassenTo Rachael AndersonYes we were glad to be able to squeeze that ride in yesterday.
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1 year ago