May 1, 2017 - Sintra to Estoril via Cabo da Roca: Ocean views to die for - A Dabble of the Douro then Leaning to Lisbon (Tour 17) - 2017 🇵🇹

May 1, 2017

May 1, 2017 - Sintra to Estoril via Cabo da Roca: Ocean views to die for

Hotel: Casa Londres, Estoril

DO I put another message in a bottle? Tribute to 2003, that is.

Well, today was a later start. Used to breaking fast around 8 am, this place was serving at 9 am. Fine, but I usually like to avoid the midday sun, increasing winds and traffic. Oh well.

A smaller meal than some, we enjoyed the time chatting with a couple originally from the Douro and Coimbra, but now living in France. They visited Canada about fifteen years ago and loved it. They were quite intrigued with our whole journey as he, too, is a rather keen cyclist. While chatting with them we finished the regular cheese and ham sandwich, homemade yogurt, and some type of apple cake.

So, a later start than normal, but at least I had asked the hostess about the route. It seems that what I had been considering was a bad idea. So rather than wander aimlessly, we took the path straight down until it met the N247. The scenery was fabulous as we wound our way down the mountain from Sintra. Sadly, it was not destined to be all down hill. At one point we were pushing almost vertically to get through some mountain villages though with rewarding views across the hills, fields, and in the west, right out to sea.

Then there were signs to Cabo da Roca. Over the 14 years I forgot how far it was from the N247 highway, but it must have been two or three km. Mostly steeply downhill. And I think you know what that means!

Like in Sintra yesterday, the traffic to the Cabo was really heavy. Almost dangerously so. Sadly at the sign for the Cape, tourists have put dozens of stickers on it, so it is almost impossible to read. The little black and white sign from last time is not even there.

But there was the lighthouse and there was the cross and there was the lookout. Thronged with tourists as it was, it brought back great memories of my 2003 accomplishment. Not to mention it was a cloudless day, the waves were pounding the rocks down below, and the nearby rolling hills were a beautiful deep green that complemented the reddish rock and sand.

I made a little video for the kids to announce the arrival, snapped a few pics, then it was time to climb back up to the main road. It took a while, but finally arrived, and really, it was the last climb of the day, and last real climb of the trip.

The next 10 km or so followed the coastline - past the beaches of Guincho where people come from all over to surf. There were people camping among the trees, there was a biplane flying stunts overhead, and further south along the coast there were hotels and restaurants that have sprung up in the past 14 years.

The wind had really come up, and true to the forecast - right at our backs - likely accelerating us up to 20 to 25 km/h. So it did not take long to get to Cascais. The tiny fishing village now become a very sophisticated riviera-style city. Cars everywhere. Tourists everywhere. It was shocking after being away from crowds most of this trip. I wanted to stop at the Irish pub I had visited and snap a photo for a friend who runs a brewery in eastern Canada, yet holidays right here quite often.

With that done, we hopped onto the bikes and headed along the busy coastal road to Estoril. Recognizable, but as I keep repeating, so much busier than before. My friendly GPS guided us right to the door of our casa, housed in an old building from 1930, about the same age as Swan Lane. We were told we had the best room, and I must say I am impressed. Nice high ceilings, a balcony that peeks at the Atlantic, and a locked room for our bikes. What more could I want?

After cleaning up we asked the desk clerk for a restaurant and he suggested 'Churrascaria do Viveiro' which was only 550 m away. It was nondescript, but the servers were very attentive and pleasant, bringing us wine, bread and olives. When the kitchen opened, we ordered roast piri-piri chicken and grilled salmon. The latter was delicious; the former was to-die-for tasty, and apparently is what they are renowned for. There were veggies, rice, potatoes, olives, bread, and red wine. All for 17€. Checking later, I found it is rated number 7 of about 200 restaurants in Estoril. In fact, a while later, the clerk from the casa showed up there with friends for dinner. If the locals eat there, then.... I think you get it.

The idea on the eve of the final cycling day was to have wine on the balcony, but it was too cold out, so reading ensued!

Beautiful forested rolling hills including many, many plane trees along the route.
- between Sintra and Cabo da Roca, Portugal

Similar to the photo I took in 2003 when I completed my tour from Istanbul, here is the westernmost point of this Dabble and Lean 2017, both times including my fave ride, my 1985 Raleigh Olympian. Though hard to read because of the defacing stickers all over the sign, it reads Cado da Roca, which is the westernmost point in continental Europe. It was also the location for a challenge in The Amazing Race 3 all those years ago.- Cabo da Roca, Portugal

Message in a Bottle? No, not this time. It was a point to relax, enjoy the view, watch the throngs of people and prepare for the long ride back up to the main highway.
- Cabo da Roca, Portugal

A surfing mecca, this huge beach has attracted tourists for years. You know you're about to head around the corner to Cascais, Estoril and Lisbon... and the finale of another great tour.
- Guincho beach, Portugal

Fishing boats in Cascais harbour. Cascais, Portugal.

Irish pub across from Cascais harbour. Cascais, Portugal.

Many footprints in the sand by many tourists on the beach, and still a beautiful spot.
- Cascais harbour, Cascais, Portugal

Today's ride: 40 km (25 miles)
Total: 375 km (233 miles)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0