April 24, 2017 - Peso da Régua to Caldas de Aregos: Cherries, cherries and more terraces of cherries - A Dabble of the Douro then Leaning to Lisbon (Tour 17) - 2017 🇵🇹 - CycleBlaze

April 24, 2017

April 24, 2017 - Peso da Régua to Caldas de Aregos: Cherries, cherries and more terraces of cherries

Hotel: Alojamento das Caldas

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ANOTHER great day following the Douro, the N222 was way above the river with awesome views up and down the river in both directions. River cruisers passed by every now and then. There was one long climb, but at this point leg strength has increased to the point that hills aren't bad now.

The terraces have gone from grapes, olives and almonds, to cherries, oranges, grapes and olives, and from quite arid to more green vegetation. The astounding beauty of the land continues unabated with photo op after photo op. I'm sure that anyone looking at the final collection of photos will comment on the endless number of terrace photos.

The main climb of the day out of Peso da Régua. The terraces are increasingly covered with emu-like cherry trees laden with zillions of fruit.
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Not only has the terrain changed, but so has the number of homes in the hills and cars on the roads. This is not to say that the traffic is overwhelming, but it is generally increasing. I suppose with the proximity to Porto, it is much easier to get in and out of a large centre for whatever one might need.

Does not seem far but with the undulating terrain, it feels much further.
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This being said, where are the tourists? Yes, it is cold for the locals, but I thought the English were in love with Portugal? This whole journey along the Douro might just be the most under-rated gem in the traveling world. Unless I am out in left field, I think this might be an up-and-coming destination. And for cyclists, whether individually, with others, or even in organized groups, this is a must for any and all.

An artsy cyclist's photo of his pride and joy with terraces of cherry trees and grapevines all around.
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The last few km after Resende were a bit of a teaser with more ups and downs. Arriving in this thermal town, it would appear that it is past its heyday, though it is trying and I think it is poised for a revival if the world finds out. There is a nice little marina, a thermal baths building, and a lot of former grand estates for sale dying for a few bucks to restore them to grand hotels, restaurants, or homes. They are here for the buying and within 100 km of Porto.

All over Portugal are these beautiful azulejos-covered bus stops. Enhanced with my touring bike.
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I was starving so we went to the adjoining restaurant for rancho, which is a typical Portuguese stew, with bread, vinho tinto, and flan for dessert. Even now into early evening, I am still full after that delicious stew.

Every now and then these river boats come cruising along. Maybe because this is the low season, but most have been empty or near empty. Where are the tourists for this fabulous scenery?
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To burn off lunch a walk was taken past some of the old closed hotel buildings, old estates and the brand new marina along the river. A river boat cruised by and a number of people on Sea Doos zipped out to play on the wake from the boat.

And that was how this great cycling day ended. The sun slipped behind the nearby terraced hills, the birds continued to twitter and say 'tweet' and I anxiously looked forward to tomorrow's cycling.

The view from the hotel balcony to a nearby new hotel and the hulking ruin of the old one in the background.
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Today's ride: 36 km (22 miles)
Total: 134 km (83 miles)

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