Zernez - Riding the Rails to Zernez - Poking Around Europe 5.0

September 1, 2018

Zernez - Riding the Rails to Zernez

Thusis to Zernez

We had an early night last evening after our dinner in the hotel. For some reason, considering we had only cycled 30 km we were both very tired. I put it down to the gravel surface being rain soaked and mushy...I can’t think of a better word, and therefore it was quite hard work.

Our day today started with an 8 jammer breakfast (counting Nutella and another chocolate spread). Steve Miller has pointed out that it is important to consider these additional spreads, even if the idea of chocolate for breakfast is beyond my comfort level!

The choice of eight different spreads. There were eggs and bacon as well, which was particularly appreciated on such an inclement day.

We had a of couple of options today and we were still discussing them over breakfast. The first one was to take a train from Thusis to Tiefencastle due to a busy road with several tunnels, as advised by Swissmobile. From there we could jump on the bikes and start a climb up and over Albulapass. This was the original plan. The second was to simply take the train. Despite the fact that we haven’t ridden very far in the last few days, which is a wee bit frustrating, the weather is cold and very wet so we finally decided we would take the train all the way to St. Moritz and then on to Zernez. It was a good call.

The train route is a UNESCO World Heritage site and stunningly beautiful. If you were to do the entire distance from Thusis to Tirano you would go over 196 bridges and through 55 tunnels. We went over the ninety metre Solis Viaduct and the Landwasser Viaduct and through several spiral tunnels. The whole ride was marvellous and since we were alarmingly close to the snow line it seemed like a very good idea.

The view from the breakfast room, which helped seal the deal. The rain was bouncing off the tables on the outdoor terrace. 48 hours ago this must have been a stunning place to enjoy breakfast. Remember we arrived in Chur in 30 degree heat.

We were able to buy a one day bike and passenger pass which allowed us to use the train system like a hop on hop off bus. It was actually a totally fabulous experience.

Here we are going over the Solis Viaduct (I think 😉). It was one or the other. Pretty amazing either way.

Just a spectacular ride, despite the rain.

Some might think we are a little crazy travelling the way we do, but while we may be crazy, we are not stupid. It was 6 degrees in St. Moritz when we jumped off the train. So the weather really was a perfect excuse not to attempt the Albulapass with its elevation of 2312 m. Our epic 5 km ride around St. Moritz was enough.

When we started our epic cycle in the rain the first thing I had to do was swap out my gloves for my insulated ones. I thought my fingers were going to freeze. We were barely off the train when we encountered a huge and important sailing regatta. Very exciting for us to see as racing sailboats was one of our passions for years and we still follow the sport. We soaked up the atmosphere, chatted to several of the participants and felt very, very sorry for all of them. Sailing can be cold on the best of days, and this was decidedly not the best of days. It might as well have been November in Victoria weather wise.

We arrived just as the J 70 class was called.

That man on the bow is not overweight. He is just wearing an incredible amount of clothing. The rest of the sailors were gearing up and waddling by us on their way to their boats

St. Moritz is beautiful, even in the rain, so we can only imagine how it would look in the sunshine. It also has a tremendous number of very, very high end shops. All the truly expensive brands were represented. As my sister in law said to me once, if you look in a store and there is only one item on each shelf, you can’t afford it. Fun to look in the windows though.

Gorgeous old church in the valley by the lake.

Me digging out the insulated gloves in front of the church. It was cold!

A beautiful view looking up, despite the soggy conditions.

We rode up into town and through the pedestrian zone.

A zoomed in view of the regatta from the pedestrian zone.

This shows how high we actually were. There were some beautiful hotels up here. Note the snow on the mountains.

After admiring the town we stopped for lunch and then hopped on the train to Zernez. We both felt much better about the bail to the train plan when four young guys with road bikes and spandex from head to toe got on. We asked how far they had ridden today. 70 km they said, which we said was fantastic in this weather. They burst out laughing and said we had misheard. They had only done 17 km and were headed back to Zernez and their hotel for a hot shower. Some days are like that! A shout out here to the Bernini Express. First, they have great uniforms, and the conductor at the St. Moritz station was simply amazing. He was so helpful.

Sorry this picture is blurry but I wanted to put it in anyway. This was just before the road bikers joined us. These cars hold 30 bikes each.

We had to switch trains on the way to Zernez. Here is the second train with its back to back bike cars and capacity of 60 bikes. Those are our road bike buddies in the background.

It has been an unexpected day, but so much fun, despite the weather. We are now on the Graubünden route, the Swiss national route number 6 which started in Chur. We weren’t on the bikes for today’s section but the train trip was fantastic, and something we wouldn’t have experienced if it wasn’t for the weather. And trust me, one positive is the weather can only improve. I am right about that aren’t I?

Here is 5 km of our strenuous 6 km ride. The last km was in Zernez.

https://www.relive.cc/view/1811522786

Today's ride: 6 km (4 miles)
Total: 282 km (175 miles)

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Comment on this entry	Comment	3

david alstonWe love it. And you won't be sitting around fifteen or so years later wishing you had gone to St. Moritz.
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5 years ago

Steve Miller/GrampiesLet's keep this blog dignified. No need to use expletives like "November in Victoria"! It is actually super pleasant right now, in September, but the specter of November is always there.
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5 years ago