Today was a surprise in some ways and just what we expected in other ways. It was a planned short day as we wanted to see Toblach, and we also felt that after four days of mountain passes a break might be a good idea. We are at a loss for how to describe it though. After so many days filled with so many astonishing sights today was underwhelming. I think we have been totally spoiled.
Leaving Cortina was beautiful. I looked up as we went by a large building and realized the bike path went directly by the hospital. I could have ridden my bike and saved the cab fare! The CN said I should have walked. We had a good chuckle.
Note the yellow marking on the pavement. They set the market up right on the bike path.
Shortly after the hospital, the bike path, which is along an abandoned rail bed, turned to gravel and we knew to expect that. One touring couple hadn’t been too alarmed by it, but Caroline and Taniel, who we met this morning just outside the hotel hadn’t been too happy with it. As we were riding along over quite a rough surface we remembered the first couple were on electric mountain bikes. For the first 18 km it was much more suited to mountain bikes than touring bikes. We didn’t see a road bike anywhere near it! Many of the mountain bikes were e bikes. We were able to tell Caroline and Taniel that they were going to have an amazing day as they headed towards Pieve di Cadore and beyond.
Caroline and Taniel. They are riding from Munich to Venice.
Gravel is not my favourite surface and it made for some pretty slow and careful riding. For a well used track it certainly wasn’t well maintained and we both had to slow frequently for particularly rough sections. At one point we both had to walk our bikes through a wash out. There were lots of bikes, but with a few exceptions, all mountain bikes.
At one point I stopped to read a sign about the railway. It was built as a narrow gauge railway during the First World War by the Italians and Austrians. In 1956 it was upgraded to high standards for the Olympics in Cortina, only to be abandoned in 1964. Such a shame. Still, a bonus for bikes I suppose, if they would just run a grader over the first 18 km. The CN, who was ahead of me at this point, became alarmed when he couldn’t see me, afraid I had fallen because of the lousy surface. He was on his way back when I turned up, full of fascinating facts that I have now forgotten. I am really missing my phone...I could have taken a picture of the sign to help me remember. At any rate, from that point on I was in the lead so he could keep an eye on me.
There were tunnels, and car free tunnels are so much fun.
At approximately 18 km we saw a lovely restaurant overlooking a small lake. We stopped for cappuccino (me) and a green tea (the health nut). Keith then saw the strudel. Perhaps he thinks the green tea balances out all that pastry and whipped cream? We both agreed that this was the laziest day of bike touring we have experienced in long while and the strudel certainly wasn’t earned.
Substantial bike tourists. We wish the powers that be could figure out at home that if you make it fun, it can be great for the tourist economy. The electric mountain bikes are amazing and allow anyone to bike tour. There are charging stations at regular intervals.
At this point the bike path improved considerably and was just fine. At the overlook for Tre Cime we met a lovely couple from Karlsruhe who have been touring but must head home and back to work Monday. We are so lucky to be retired. The four of us agreed that the weather has done us a huge favour for seeing the Dolomites. Today was another stunning day.
First ascents of Tre Cime...for our son and daughter in law.
I had a good laugh at one point. There was roadwork, and they had parked an enormous truck right in the middle of the bike path. It basically took up the entire width of the path. All the bikes had to get off and walk, squeezing by the huge thing. The tires were taller than me. I asked Keith to take a picture and he demurred. I told him I needed something to blog about and he said just to say it was kind of a boring day...blog will resume tomorrow. I found that so funny because today was great, not boring, but there were no summits to conquer, no amazing bike paths to write about. Every day on this tour has been so absolutely amazing so to have a regular day felt a bit flat (and that pun wasn’t intended hehe). We are spoiled.
Toblach is beautiful. Scott Anderson (https://www.cycleblaze.com/journals/dubrovnik2018/) told us about Tre Cime and we have done some research. We are staying put and taking the shuttle bus up tomorrow to hike around the peaks. We are very excited. It is supposed to be one of the most beautiful places in the Dolomites. You can cycle up, but that is from the Cortina direction so the bus it is. We both love hiking and while we will miss our boots and poles we will be just fine
The church in Toblach. Gorgeous. Unfortunately it is right outside our hotel. At 3 PM the bells rang, oh, about fifty times. It could be an interesting night.
I am not sure how the priest gets in the pulpit. Levitates? There are no stairs an the other side either. The CN has pointed out there is a door at the back of the pulpit so there must be a hidden staircase.
One of the highlights of Toblach. There is a farm in the middle of town and we joined all the other tourists being entertained by the chickens and Caruso the strutting rooster.
Our hotel. Great spot. Too bad that having decided to stay put and go hiking we have to move. Yup, it is the weekend and they are fully booked. No worries though, just across the street.
