Feltre - It Almost Felt Like a Day Off - Poking Around Europe 5.0

September 11, 2018

Feltre - It Almost Felt Like a Day Off

Levico Terme to Feltre

Today was a much easier day, and with the first 40 km or so being either flat or a gradual downhill it did almost feel like a rest day. We began the day thinking about just staying put and hanging out by the pool and actually having a rest day (seriously we did) but we would have had to change rooms, and if you have to pack all your stuff you might as well go riding, right?

I was told by the CN this morning that I was too quick to give yesterday’s breakfast a full ten, so I don’t want to rate today’s without consulting him, but I can tell you this...there were fresh figs. Amazing.

Levico is a stunning place. We really took our time leaving town to enjoy it. We highly recommend a visit. There were no bus tours that we could see, or other North American tourists. We did meet a few people from Great Britain who were there for a Grand Fondo in the area. We figure Rick Steves hasn’t been there yet, although there were the usual tourist shops and a tourist train.

We knew we had a downhill pull to start the day as we went up, up to the hotel last night.

The usual touristy shops and the tourist train.

Then we were onto the Via Claudia Augusta and it rivaled the ride from Merano to Trento for the first 40 km. Absolutely gorgeous scenery, downhill and river to the right for navigational purposes. We loved it.

I keep saying it. This is such a beautiful bike path and there are so many cyclists enjoying it.

Borgo was the next town we rode through and it was also incredibly picturesque. At one point the dedicated bike path went down under a series of arches in the town. It was beautiful.

Another section of the path. Note the sign above the entry.

We stopped for lunch at a shady bench and we enjoyed the passing cyclists calling out Bon Appetito to us as we enjoyed our picnic. We had a great view of the river. At this point our ride had been pretty much all downhill. However, we are not continuing on the Claudia Augusta as the CN wants to see the Dolomites up close and personal. I am following him because without him I would be lost (in so many ways). Feltre was the goal and suddenly we were into a series of switchbacks to climb over Passo di Rollo. This was easy climbing though, and truth is we loved it. There was an old fort about halfway up...all information in Italian unfortunately, but very interesting. Somehow we ended up on the Alp Adria route and it was just fine

The views are the reward when you climb.

Heading up the switchbacks towards the fortress.

After that the route was a combination of quiet roads and cycle paths. Feltre is fascinating. Absolutely full of history. The Centro Storico and cathedral are quite something. There are virtually no tourists. It is an authentic Italian city that features in WW I and II history. Mussolini and Hitler met here in WW II. We had a good wander around and a visit to Tourist Information about the way forward. Seems we are cycling. Trains have been cancelled due to some problem...that was lost in the translation...and the buses are busy because it is the first day of school tomorrow. You have to love it. At least it makes decisions easy.

Feltre is an old city that is very authentic.

The Centro Storico...the historic center.

Dinner was pizza and we had wine and a very interesting chat with Silvio, the host of the Casa Novecento B and B outside on the patio until well after dark. If you ever find yourself in Feltre, this is the spot. This morning over breakfast we learned more history than we can ever hope to remember and it was all fascinating. After talking to Isabella, our host with her husband Silvio, we are feeling confident about the route ahead. After talking to Isabella, who is also a tour guide we are going to head to Belluno today, and then south to Treviso before going north to the Dolomites. There are going to be a few days of unsettled weather after today and it makes sense. Isabella also showed us pictures, and now we must see it for ourselves.

We also met their beautiful daughter Simonetta, who will be studying German and English in Padova this fall. As always with travel, the people you meet make the trip.

The house cat. After a scratch behind the ears he allowed us in for breakfast.

The old wall of the renovated B and B peeking through. This is a fabulous spot to stay.

That’s better. Today we started downhill 👍.

Today's ride: 70 km (43 miles)
Total: 822 km (510 miles)

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Scott AndersonI can’t quite figure out where you’re going from here, but you aren’t far from Passo San Boldo. The turnoff is to the south at Trichiana, midway between Feltre and Belluno. You might Google it. It’s a unique pass, straight down a cliff through a series of short macaroni bend tunnels. If you go, use your lights - as short as they are, its pitch black in the middle of them - or at least it was back in 1994 when I spilled in one of them.
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5 years ago

Keith ClassenHi Scott - well I can’ t blame you because we can hardly figure out where we are going beyond a few days. Its planning on to go!!! The plan was to head north from here through the Dolomites and spend some time there and then east down the Drau. But that plan might be delayed a few days after talking to our delightful host Isabella at the hotel in Feltre this morning. We may take a detour south to check out Treviso and a few other spots she recommended. Upon your suggestion I did check out Passo de Boldo and does that look intriguing.
We have always been very impressed on the detail of your planning of your tours.
A question for you. Do you have an app that you use that will provides a good elevation profile so that you have a good idea of what you can expect on any given day. I had one
last year that I was using but I think it is no longer available. Enjoying your blog... great photos!
Keith
Reply to this comment
5 years ago