Disentis - Up and Ober - Poking Around Europe 5.0 - CycleBlaze

August 28, 2018

Disentis - Up and Ober

Andermatt to Disentis

My goodness we are not getting anywhere fast!  We are having the best slow travel experience imaginable. We have been so lucky with the weather in the mountains and today was spectacular in every way. At one point we were riding along with a waterfall cascading to our right, Swiss cows and their bells to the left and a helicopter way overhead making run after run dropping off construction materials for a new ski lift. It struck me that you wouldn’t hear or see any of this from a car.  we feel so lucky to travel this way. 

We did a short circle around Andermatt this morning to warm up for the main event, the Oberalp Pass. 

Looking back at the Gotthard Pass. We came down that way to Andermatt last year. That is why the climb yesterday was such a surprise to me.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Looking up the other way at today’s ride, the Oberalp Pass.
Heart 3 Comment 0
Riding through Andermatt we came across these three lovelies.
Heart 4 Comment 0

After a brief stop at the local grocer to supplement our meagre lunch supplies we started up. The first few km were fairly challenging but we were fresh and the views were immediately spectacular. We weren’t in a hurry because today’s goal wasn’t distance, it was to enjoy the ride. And enjoy we did. Traffic was moderate and about 60% motorcycles. They were great but a bit noisy, so we stuck in the ear plugs. We saw some amazing cars, including a Maserati and a Ferrari so that was fun. The ride immediately out of Andermatt was a series of switchbacks and so great. 

I took a screen shot from Strava showing the switchbacks at the start.
Heart 3 Comment 1
Larry CadeI'm sure switchbacks are your 'friends' - beats going straight up!
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Going up and looking back down at Andermatt.
Heart 2 Comment 0
One of the many motorcycles.
Heart 4 Comment 1
Larry CadeGreat photo.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
It was spectacular from the start.
Heart 4 Comment 0
Not the Maserati or the Ferrari. Pretty special though.
Heart 4 Comment 0
And the world’s slowest express train, according to the ads.
Heart 2 Comment 0
What a day. Non stop views.
Heart 6 Comment 1
Larry CadeSpectacular!
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Heart 1 Comment 0

We took our time and just spun our way up in granny gear, stopping frequently for ohhing and ahhing and picture taking. We loved it. As we approached the top we came to the tunnel we had been a wee bit concerned about. Well, it wasn’t really a tunnel, it was more of a snow shed, and as luck would have it there were flag persons controlling the traffic due to construction and they knew we were on the road so we didn’t have anything pass us as we went through. A wink to my friend Helen because I think she had a hand in that!

It looks downhill, but trust me, it wasn’t.
Heart 6 Comment 0
Our trusty flag person.
Heart 2 Comment 0
Lots of activity on the other side of the tunnel.
Heart 2 Comment 0

Once at the top we stopped for what we felt was a well deserved coffee and ice cream. Then we took the obligatory summit photos. While doing that we had the good fortune to Gerhardt, who has a contract with SwitzerlandMobility, an app which is specifically geared to cycle touring and is amazing. https://www.schweizmobil.ch/en/switzerlandmobility-app-e.html. We had a good chat with him. He was on an e-bike, and we think he has a dream job.  He is riding all the nine bike routes highlighted in the app, making notes and taking pictures. We have been using the app extensively to plan this part of the trip so it was great to be able to tell him what a fantastic resource it is.

Looking back at the long tunnel we had to ourselves. Makes for a much better experience. It is the noise, noise, noise in tunnels that gets the heart rate up.
Heart 4 Comment 3
Larry CadeAnd how was the visibility, by which I mean 'light'? Tunnels tend to be so dark, but I see this one had openings along one side.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenThe visibility was good, much better than a regular tunnel and the noise was dissipated as well. It also helped that we only had traffic in one direction 👍.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Motorcycles at the top.
Heart 1 Comment 0
I am as happy as I look.
Heart 6 Comment 1
Larry CadeA very well-deserved celebratory break!
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Summit photo. Note the goofy lighthouse in the background.
Heart 6 Comment 0
What a dream job he has.
Heart 3 Comment 0

Then came the swoop down and much, much more, but I have to finish this in the morning. I just fell asleep. More to follow. 

Apologies for last night’s sleepiness 😴. Especially since the day just kept getting better and we were about to swoop down the pass. I am not sure how to describe how much fun it was. We have gone downhill like this before, but the road surface was fantastic and the vistas at every turn were unbelievable. 

Heart 3 Comment 0
Heart 5 Comment 2
Larry CadeHopefully on-coming traffic was light, and keeping to their own lane?
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Larry CadeVery little traffic. Mostly motorcycles 🏍. They are great.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Image not found :(
Heart 3 Comment 0
Heart 3 Comment 0
Our view from our picnic lunch.
Heart 5 Comment 0

It was over all too soon, but then we rolled into Disentis and saw this. 

We checked in. Immediately. What a stunning spot.
Heart 5 Comment 0
Heart 2 Comment 1
Larry CadeAnd what a wonderfully inviting bed!
Reply to this comment
5 years ago

Then we went for a good walk and a visit to the Disentis Monastery. We found our way back to the patio of the hotel and relaxed over beer while studying the map for today’s adventure. We had an amazing dinner in the hotel and their speciality is Capuns, which we had never heard of but were delicious. Look them up!  Leaves wrapped around some deliciousness. The restaurant is world champion at making them. Then of course, I fell asleep. What a superb day. 

Heart 0 Comment 0

https://www.relive.cc/view/1802965218

Today's ride: 37 km (23 miles)
Total: 176 km (109 miles)

Rate this entry's writing Heart 7
Comment on this entry Comment 7
Steve Miller/GrampiesGreat photos, showing the layout of Andermatt and the passes. We have never been there, only having gone to Goschenen.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
david alstonKeith and Kathleen,

Thanks for the journal. We love it when you are on the road, you fill us with ideas and inspiration.

We are doing things a little differently this year and have already been to and returned from Europe without our bikes this time. Nevertheless we made it to Garmisch and the Zugspitze summit and we loved it.

Have a good trip,

David and Maun
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Jacquie GaudetOoh! Ideas for next year when I’ll finally be retired!

Jacquie
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Steve Miller/GrampiesI am still amused by my geographical ineptness and my feeling Andermatt was down low after coming down Furka to it last year. The climb up from Altdorf was such a surprise to me. We didn’t see much of Goschenen with our train sitting right there!
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo Jacquie GaudetSo wonderful to hear from you and congratulations on impending retirement. It is the best gig! Be sure to check out the Switzerland Mobility app. It is fantastic. An amazing resource.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Kathleen ClassenTo david alstonSoTravel is wonderful no matter how you do it, isn’t it. Sometimes when we are having route or accommodation challenges I threaten Keith with a cruise. Being in this part of the world has us talking about a hiking holiday. It is a beautiful but expensive part of the world.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago
Jacquie GaudetTo Kathleen ClassenAlready downloaded! Not sure when I’ll get to Switzerland but likely in 2019 or 2020.

In the meantime, I’m enjoying your journal and seeing how you have now joined the community of col collectors. That feeling of accomplishment at the top is addictive, as is the reward of the swoop down.
Reply to this comment
5 years ago