Day 19: Dalhart to Guymon

May 24, 2023

This was the second day of our 210 straight-line north-east. We were to start in Texas to pass into the Oklahoma panhandle.

The weather forecasts differed about whether or not it would rain. In the event that didn't matter because there was such a heavy fog that we were bound to get wet anyway. A thin race cape was just right for keeping me dry enough without overheating. Visibility was a few hundred yards but relatively safe for cycling because the hard shoulders of the Texas roads are so wide and smooth. Simon and I chatted for a while, until Doug passed us and then David. Simon couldn't resist the temptation to go after them, whereas I managed.

There was a sort of magic to cycling along perfectly smooth and flat tarmac in the fog. It was a shame about the traffic, though there wouldn't have been a road without them. Once again, the trucks were very respectful when ever they could be.

I was caught by a larger train, which I joined until the first SAG outside a gas station at 30 miles. By the time I'd used the facilities and bought an iced coffee several of the train had moved on. I was happy to ride on my own.

The fog was gradually clearing, revealing totally flat cattle fields.

The services at Texahoma had been flagged as a possible second stop. There is some dispute about the population there, varying between 346 and 800 people, depending on the source. Whichever is true, it is not a big city. Jata's coffee house seemed out of place, and possibly not even open. However, after a quick cycle up and down the road looking for somewhere, I returned to be welcomed by the three staff, who made me a great expresso and croissant. They even ground some beans for me to take away. Even if 10% of the population want this style of coffee (and that would be a huge proportion in this area) they will sell only 30-80 coffees a day.

Buoyed up by caffeine in my bloodstream and the prospect of more tomorrow, I chugged along until I came across Barbara photographing something interesting. I introduced her to the concept of pootling and we had a delightful time chatting about her college days, love of literature and stuff. The last 18 miles passed very easily, and we still had more than two hours before we could expect our rooms to be ready.

Chad and Spencer let everyone know they'd found a good pub on WhatsApp, so we joined them there, even wheeling our bikes into some kind of reclaimed factory. A cold beer and a salad filled the time nicely until we cycled the remaining mile to the hotel.

As I went up to my room I was struck by the similar perspectives of staring down a road and staring down a hotel corridor. A disproportionate amount of my time is spent doing these things.

Great company with Mark S, Ron, Jean, Mark B and Simon tonight in an eatery in a converted Nissen Hut with the acoustics of a school dining hall and shouty waitresses.

This is a large cowboy doing something unspeakable onto Barbara's bike

Livestock auction house and restaurant minimising the food miles

Today's ride: 73 miles (117 km)
Total: 1,316 miles (2,118 km)

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