September 8, 2019
Change is in the air
Bourbon-Lancy to Nevers
Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness indeed. This morning dawns with heavy cloud cover, reminding us that Autumn is now tapping us on the shoulder as we unearth warm jackets from our panniers.
I used to teach this poem, 'To Autumn' and did my best to share my enthusiasm for Keats' powerful imagery with reluctant students. I particularly love the way he uses personification to bring the season to life. (Am a bit of a fan of using personification myself; you may have noticed)
We are warmed, however, by the kindness of our overnight host. He is a busy man, running a café and restaurant as well as managing a clutch of studio apartments. There was much shaking of hands on arrival, and again on departure. But, before we leave, we must have a coffee, yes? Gratuit, of course. C'est un vraiment gentil homme.
This morning sees us again rolling through undulating countryside. It is remarkably quiet . . . no church bells, no cow bells, and very few vehicles to break the silence. It's certainly aromatic though. The lack of sun and wind seem to intensify the farmyard smells and the odours of freshly harvested pastures.
At Decize, an ancient settlement stretching at least as far back as Julius Caesar, we meet the sprawling Loire river again, having to cross no fewer than three bridges to cover its various strands. It's still an important navigation crossroads, forming the junction between the Canal du Nivernais and the Canal Latéral à la Loire. And not just for shipping: we cyclists arrive on the former and depart via the latter.
Failing to find somewhere to eat in town, we continue along our canal path, heartened by signs for La Halte Nautique, open until 3pm on Sundays. And sure enough, at another colourful canal lock, we find a small hut and a number of marquees set up alongside the canal. We take our seats on the grass and enjoy a two-course lunch for €7 apiece. Plus coffee. Oh, all right, plus rosé.
We meet the occupants of a beautifully maintained canal barge, flying the Australian flag, who are also dining in the tent. They are from Townsville and are enjoying two months of life in the slow lane. She has the unfortunate honour of being the second Australian we have heard of in two days to have fractured her wrist in a cycling accident. However, she is manfully soldiering on with one arm, still able to deal with whatever the first mate has to do to guide a large boat through a lock.
Well fortified, we cruise the final 30-odd km to tonight's accommodation. It's a self-contained apartment that appears to be housed in a senior citizens' village. Not entirely inappropriate then.
Today's ride: 90 km (56 miles)
Total: 854 km (530 miles)
| Rate this entry's writing | Heart | 6 |
| Comment on this entry | Comment | 2 |
Enjoying following your journal, so many canals I haven't heard of, and Switzerland, my favourite place. Great photos........including seeing Colin Firth on your travels....how lucky is that?? I'm sure I'm going to be dreaming about him now too as I'm cycling around Nelson NZ. On that note I see you are from Picton/Blenheim, I'm in Atawhai as you come into Nelson from the Whangamoas, if you ever over this way please get in contact and call in for a cuppa, it'd be lovely to meet you and talk cycle touring.
I can be found on Crazy Guy On A Bike
https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/directory/?user=KiwiSandy
Seriously thinking of changing over to CycleBlaze
Enjoy the rest of your tour and then China
Sandy
4 years ago
Thanks for the message...and, yes, would love to meet up and talk cycle touring! We come across to Nelson occasionally and love biking the trails from Richmond all the way up to Kaiteriteri. Great trails!
And, yes, we're really enjoying this trip - our first long distance one.
Cheers
Robyn
4 years ago