I woke up very early, 7:00 AM, and was at breakfast by 8:00. Waking up early does not necessarily mean being out of bed after all! But the "free" breakfast was nothing to rush for, but better than what was offered in Hancock. Plus, there were really no other options, it seemed, although at least two coffee shops were in the environs. None seemed to offer a full breakfast, and at least here, I got eggs (steamed?), bacon, coffee, cereal, juice, etc.
No tour is without its challenges. But my only challenge today was at push-off. The Garmin just couldn't locate any satellites. None, neither the American nor the Russian variety. This was frustrating since the Russian system (GLONASS) is supposed to be best in remote mountainous regions with tree canopy! So after a quick stop at the CVS, I fiddled with that, waited too long while it "searched," rebooted the Garmin, waited some more, and finally gave up. I didn't need the Garmin for wayfinding, at least not today, but I do like to record my rides.
So I made my way down to the waterfront to look for the start of the GAP. Unlike the C&O Canal, there is no grand entry point; there is just signage, sometimes small, pointing the way. And you have to track across at least one busy street to what I would consider the real start, the rail depot. But once there, what a pleasure!
Asphalt initially, which was a pleasure to roll on, but that turned to a finely graded cinder. Not as smooth as asphalt but a big improvement over the C&O Canal. The trail parallels an active rail line that I think is used exclusively by the Western Maryland Scenic Railroad. But I saw no trains today, only a work crew working on the track. And after about 15 miles, it splits off as well.
Starting up the GAP. The asphalt was a pleasure to ride on after all that nastiness on the C&O Canal.
My first tunnel, after about five miles into the ride. This sign makes it sound more alarming than it really is, although the advice is typical, I guess.
I did not walk my bike, but I did slide my sunglasses down my nose a bit so I could see over them. I'm not sure which way you are supposed to "run" if you see a train coming. And do you abandon your bike? I think I would just keep moving along.
But shortly afterward, I crossed under this structure, so maybe it just winds up the mountain on a slightly different path . . . or maybe it's another railroad altogether.
The first 22 or 23 miles are all uphill. And an uphill that is steeper than the C&O Canal. But it wasn't a bad climb; just get in the right gear and pedal. Along the way, I fell in with a guy, Jeremy, who I had met in Harpers Ferry at the bike shop. He was a strong biker and carrying (possibly) a little less load than me. He had left his buddy behind, who was slower, as he was keen on getting to camp early in Rockwood. We rode together for a couple of miles, but I warned him I would be stopping to take pictures. So we separated after riding together for about 30 minutes, chatting the whole time. He is a surveyor in Ohio, so we had mutual interests besides biking.
Of course, at the top of that climb is the Eastern Continental Divide at 2392 feet above sea level. Along the way, you cross the Mason and Dixon Line (although I have always said Mason-Dixon Line). Both stops are equally popular, although the divide is certainly more significant. But the Mason and Dixon Line can make for some amusing geography discussions. One woman wondered out loud (from the Pennsylvania side), "How far is Maryland?" I replied, "Five feet."
The Mason and Dixon Line, spelled out with large blocks, one per letter, and suitable for resting your laurels on.
This graphic dramatically shows what I have been doing since I left Washington . . . uphill all the way. Of course, it's exaggerated, but I could still tell on the descent that it was, well, downhill!
From the divide, it was all downhill to Confluence. I arrived about 4:30 after almost 61 miles. I had to guess on the first two miles, as my Garmin finally found satellites shortly after I passed the railroad depot. Anyway, it was good to arrive early for a change. The River's Edge is literally on the river and provides a very relaxed and true B&B experience (cuteness and all).
The start of the descent after leaving the Eastern Continental Divide.
This is a unique and historic structure, a Bollman Truss crossing Wills Creek. It is one of a few remaining iron bridges in the United States. Bollman, however, designed a more unique (can you be "more" unique?) and larger structure located in Savage, Maryland, for which he was awarded a patent.
The GAP follows the Casselman River to Confluence, where it flows into the Youghiogheny River. Due to the meandering nature of the river and the local topography, the trail crosses the river twice at the Pinkerton Tunnel.
And the Pinkerton Tunnel. So I guess I was wrong. I did pass through one more tunnel on the way down, although this just recently opened after an extensive rehabilitation. Previously, you turned left here and went "the long way" around the mountain to the other side.
