DAY 19: Sunset State Beach to Pfeifer Big Sur State Park

August 21, 2018

STATS:

Distance: 70.49

Average Speed: 11.2 mph

Time Pedaling: 5:45:28

Maximum speed: 35.1 mph

Expenses: $9 (coffee and campsite)

This campground is apparently populated by three very noisy creatures: screech owls, marauding raccoons, and a rooster whose owner, I presume, tried to performed a botched de-voicing job and was wildly unsuccessful. Alas, I still slept like a king.

I was out of camp by 8:30 and immediately felt as though I had been transported back to Mexico (where I lived for 10 months). Spanish music wafted from the fields, hand painted signs were scribbled onto fences ("Se vende huevo de gallina de rancho" etc), nopales lines the road, and a few stray dogs trotted behind me as I made my way through miles of endless farmlands. I really enjoyed it, and it made me excited for when I eventually have the chance to tour south of the border.

Such physically demanding work, but so, so honorable. These folks are the ones working to bring fresh fruits and veggies to your table, while also working to provide for their own families. They have my upmost respect. I've really enjoyed seeing this side of California.

I soon joined Highway 1 for several miles, which was deeply unpleasant. However, I soon turned off on more farm roads and eventually a magnificent bike path into Monterey.

As a car nerd, I was quite pleased that I timed my passage through Monterey during a large collector car auction. Lamborghinis, Aston Martins, Ferraris, and the exotic like were all on display.

I can't even afford the security guards' golf cart. I'd take the Ferrari Dino if I had a choice. They started it up at one point and it sounded NASTY!

This Countach is nice and all, but I'd take something a little less flashy. A touring bike, perhaps.

I took a long stop at a botique coffee shop so that I could charge up all of my electronics (and myself) before heading towards the lofty climbs and remote coastlines of Big Sur. I had a great conversation with a worker named Howard regarding mindfulness and self-reflection.

The incredible wealth disparity I witnessed today was quite startling, and as I pedaled out of Monterey and into Big Sur, I started to reflect. I think one reason why I enjoy biking so much is because it is an activity that nicely bridges disparity. Sure, there still exists a hierarchy regarding equipment, but the action remains the same. Young or old, rich or poor, it doesn't matter. It's humbling. I think that's also why I like old VW Bugs so much (like the little Herbie that joins me on all of my tours). They too have a way of connecting all walks of people. From the old green taxis that can still be found plowing the streets of Mexico City, to the fully restored concourse-quality models that can be found fetching top dollar at auctions like the one in Monterey, the basic underlying comcept remains: a "people's car" (the translation of Vollswagen) that we can all aspire to own.

And that, folks, is just one example of the countless thoughts that occupy my mind while cycling. You should try it. It's quite therapeutic.

The start of Big Sur was something else, and made me so excited for tomorrow. At one point in the final few miles to camp, I was run off the road by an overtaking Ferrari, Porsche, and Aston Martin. They simply didn't see me. To be honest, it would have been a pretty epic way to go out. Definitely more so than being mowed down by some ditz in a beige Toyota Corolla.

I arrived at Pfeifer Big Sur State Park and had dinner with a group of British, Spanish, and Belgian cyclists. I'm often the only American in a group. Hopefully they don't think that all Americans smell like me.

Gas: passed

Today's ride: 70 miles (113 km)
Total: 1,388 miles (2,234 km)

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