Day 14: To Umpqua Hot Spring

August 17, 2005

I slept until 8:15 and got on the road at 10. The temperature got down to 40F overnight, probably the coldest night of the tour. I rode 4 miles along the east shore of Diamond Lake to the Diamond lake resort to stock up on groceries. There I had a very long conversation with an old guy who has led many Adventure Cycling tours including a Northern Tier tour in 2004. I don't remember his name, though.

Rental boats at the Diamond Lake resort.

I didn't get back on the road again until 11:30. But that's okay because I don't have far to go and it's mostly downhill. I followed OR 138 downhill towards the North Umpqua river. My first stop is Clearwater Falls which is only about 1/2 mile off the highway. The setting is lush and beautiful but it's hard to get a good photo when part of the waterfall is in the sun and most of it is in the shade.

Clearwater Falls drops 30 feet in segments.

Then I went another 3 miles down the highway and took the turnoff to Whitehorse Falls which is only 1/4 mile off the highway. It's not very tall waterfall but is uniquely beautiful.

Whitehorse Falls drops 15 feet into a punchbowl. The plunge pool is cold!

Then a short distance down the highway to the Watson Falls trailhead. To see this waterfall I had to walk 1/4 mile steep uphill on a rather primitive trail. Watson Falls is the tallest waterfall in the area but the flow is quite small this time of year. I want to go back in winter to see it with much greater flow.

Watson Falls plunges 272-feet over a basalt lava cliff.

A cascading creek near the Watson Falls trailhead.

Back on the highway I went less than 2 miles down highway 138 and turned north on forest road 34, Toketee-Rigdon road. I passed the Toketee Falls trailhead (I'll go there tomorrow) and Toketee reservoir, then turned on the gravel road to Umpqua hot spring. The road was recently graded, so the loose gravel was rather slippery for a bike. And there was a steep hill. After 2 strenuous miles of gravel I turned into the Umpqua hot spring parking area. This is my destination for the day. I walked the bike across the footbridge and down the trail until it started to get steep. Then I locked the bike to a tree and carried my panniers up the steep trail.

The trail to Umpqua hot spring starts with this footbridge across the North Umpqua river.

View of the North Umpqua river from the footbridge.

The trail climbs steeply, gaining 150 feet. It was difficult while carrying a heavy load in both arms. The trail is almost as steep going down the other side of the hill to my riverside campsite. I had discovered this free campsite on a previous visit to the hot spring. It has flat shady areas to pitch a tent, river access to filter water, fire rings, and fallen trees have been carved into impromptu tables and chairs. I arrived at 4PM, set up camp, then went for a soak at the hot spring.

I enjoyed a well-deserved rest at Umpqua Hot Spring.

A blurry near-sunset photo of a couple enjoying one of the pools at Umpqua Hot Spring.

Several people came and went while I was soaking. I met a guy who lives 10 miles from me. I was getting hungry after a couple hours of soaking in the hot pools. So I walked 5 minutes back to my campsite and made dinner. After dinner I went back to the hot spring for several more hours of soaking. It was my first time to soak there at night. Most of the time I shared the main pool with a group of 4 men and 3 women who were visiting from a Wiccan summer camp 15 miles away. At about 11PM I was getting sleepy, so I wandered back to camp and went to sleep. It was so peaceful. No cars, no voices, just the sound of the river.

After three consecutive days of very strenuous cycling I deserve a lazy day or two. Today's ride was short, mostly downhill, with several scenic stops. I started at 5100 feet elevation and tonight's campsite is 2500 feet elevation in a lush forested river canyon. Once again the weather was totally sunny with a high in the upper 80's (about 30C). Tomorrow will be another lazy day. I'm in no hurry to leave this place.

Distance: 30.7 mi. (49.1 km)

Distance on gravel roads: about 3 mi. (4.8 km)

Climbing: 738 ft. (224 m)

Average speed: 13.7 mph (21.9 km/h)

Maximum speed: 39.8 mph (63.7 km/h)

Hiking: 4 miles (6.4 km)

Today's ride: 31 miles (50 km)
Total: 668 miles (1,075 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	0
Comment on this entry	Comment	0