Zilina to the High Tatras

August 13, 2022 to August 18, 2022

Woke up, watched the sunrise and picked berries before setting off down some fun single-track into Slovakia! The forest was covered in mist and it looked incredible riding in the morning sun down through into ski resort towns.

Pushed on up a big hill and back down into Zilina, was pretty exhausted and was tempted by some pizza. Stopped off for longer than I hoped and felt so sluggish riding on.

Cycled past a bike race around the reservoir and wanted to join in but I wasn’t allowed. I rode alongside them on the road above trying to keep up. I could manage for a while but soon got worn out. The road across the train tracks was closed so had to take a long detour around to the next bridge then back.

Was a long way away from my goal for today so decided to take a detour away from the main road onto some tracks through some small villages. I realise I much prefer this way of touring, even though I cover a lot less ground, it is so much more peaceful and fun. The detour took me out into Terchova which was another very Slovak ski resort town.

Even though I was exhausted, hungry and the sun was setting soon I decided to make tomorrow easier and cycle one of the passes. By the time I got to the top I just wanted to eat asap and sleep, I found a field away from the road and did just that.

14th

Really enjoyed riding up the next pass in the morning. Makes such a difference when you're alone and in nature. I enjoyed it so much I rode back up again after missing a turning on the downhill.

The hills are a lot easier when you stop every 5 minutes to pick a new flower

Was a sketchy long technical decline which was not fun on a touring bike, hands were cramping so much by the bottom. It only makes the flat road at the bottom so much better though.

Reached out to Zuzana from WarmShowers as she was on my route and stopped off at her peaceful house in the forest for food and to wait out the rain. Her daughter was so playful and loved climbing everything in the house.

Carried on on some more awesome off road trails, had so much fun heading through the forests and farmland with the mountain views.

Another big pass to finish the day(again), was told it wasn’t so big but this was a lie. Planned to camp near some hot springs Richard told be about but it was so busy and I didn't like it so much, I felt dirtier after getting out than I did before. Set off as the thunderstorm got close and found this big hill which looked like a great spot to watch the sunset, definitely worked hard for it but was a great spot to camp.

15-16th

Didn't have far to go to reach place to stay tonight so had a very lazy morning around the camp enjoying the beautiful mountain views. Got a little bit of camp envy when just 20 mins away from my spot I arrived at Liptovská Mara, a stunning clear lake with views for miles. Need to get over this envy as there's always a better spot.

Soon after leaving the lake, a huge thunderstorm appeard and I still had a couple of hours riding along the main road in the pouring rain. Decided it was a good time to do a food shop so waited out the storm in a Lidl before carrying on along a lovely River path to meet Richard.

Richard moved here from England and bought an old school house to renovate. He has a big room for guests and it is a haven for travelers of all kinds passing though. Staying with Richard was Gabor, Thibaut, Phillipe and Mario, all on workaways helping to renovate the house.

I stayed here for a couple of nights to rest and explore the local area. I loved cooking up big meals with the group and getting to know everyone. Richard had travelled over much of the world and had some fascinating stories about his adventures. I feel more eager to travel to areas off the beaten track where tourists would never go and be more open to meeting people and new experiences. I also think I need a change of pace to better understand countries, currently I think I am speeding though countries and not properly understanding what its like to live there. Richard suggested the idea of doing a workaway over the winter to pass the time and to explore a country more deeply which I am seriously considering now.

Found this on the floor, may come in useful in Romania or for the Turkish dogs

17th

Left in the afternoon after a meal out with everyone to finish off the climb in the high Tatras. Soon realised I had a slow puncture, a man came and accompanied me and we spoke sign language as I repaired. Stopped earlier than planned as i saw a spot with an incredible view but I had no water so it was a long walk downhill to find a stream to refill everything. Took a few bear precautions such as cooking away from camp and keeping food away from me but still slept under the stars as it was a beautiful night.

There are worse places to get a puncture

18th

Risking the bears so I can wake up looking at this

Finished the big climb up to Strbské Pleso and had a quick look around, there were tourists everywhere but was a great spot to cook up some breakfast.

Carried on down to Poprad and was finally down from the big pass, thinking I was done with the hills but I was very wrong. I decided to take a detour to Slovensky Raj (Slovak paradise) as per a recommendation by Richard and the hill was brutal at the end of the day. On tarmac it may have been manageable but hopping up big rocks and loose gravel wasn’t so fun on a loaded touring bike.

Made it to the top and wandered around this ruined monastery from the 13th century learning about the history of the area. Spoke to the archaeologist that was living there and a family who were helping to translate and he said I was welcome to stay with them there along with the gypsy workers that were helping with the reconstruction. I happily accepted and joined Jonas and his family for a drink before joining the rest for dinner, although I wasn’t able to understand much.

Today's ride: 280 km (174 miles)
Total: 8,380 km (5,204 miles)

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