August 3, 2022 to August 4, 2022
The Beautiful Bohemia + New Friends!
Ok the slugs are getting out of hand, 5 got into my tent in a tiny gap and I keep finding them in my bags too.
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Entered into Czechia, my 6th country, in a very peaceful forest after a lot of climbing.
Saw a lake on the map which I thought might be a peaceful place to have a break. Swam out into the lake until I couldn't hear the crowds anymore and enjoyed the beautiful views.
Found a spot in a pine forest to camp and fed a local spider the mosquitoes I swatted (felt bad when i accidently destroyed the web pitching my tent - sorry). Also no slugs in sight!
The first 20k the next day was very difficult with steep hills on very loose gravel so had to push at some points.
Ceske Krumlov was beautiful and I stopped for some time to admire the architecture and for a second breakfast.
Stopped briefly in Ceske Budejovice also and tired to cure my insatiable appetite, it's finally getting cheaper to eat out!
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Saw a spot on the map which I thought would be perfect to camp. What I Envisioned: pitch my tent by a crystal clear lake all alone, cooling off and washing in the water, cooking a big meal. The reality was the water was opaque brown with reeds everywhere and an unholy amount of mosquitoes which instantly swarmed me, I had to put on my thick fleece and trousers in the 30° heat. I thought I'd leave the swim so found a spot on the other side of the woods where I rushed cooking (managed to lose an aubergine somehow??) and laid in my tent sticky, sunburned and covered in bites. Maybe I shouldn't have been too optimistic.
Despite the stress the night before I slept well and had an amazing ride in the cool morning air, listening to music and feeling so free.
Covered some good ground before my energy started to crash, it reached 35 and I ran out of water. Stopped at a small supermarket where I sat outside and ate a sugary meal including a tub of cheap ice cream and 1.5L of lemonade mistaken for a bottle of water. Next to me sat a chain-smoking woman with the raspiest voice, we enjoyed each other's company and tried to make a conversation even though no one could understand.
Wasn’t fun cycling in the heat after all the ice cream but was very happy to see 2 loaded bikes at the top of the hill and their owners, Leon and Teressa taking a siesta. I joined them and traded lemonade for water before we rode off together down the hill seeing who is fastest without pedalling.
We arrived at my warm showers host and were all warmly welcomed to stay by Viktor and his family and were later joined by Tim and Alissa, 2 more German bike travellers at the end of a 1 year trip. Had an awesome night listening to the talented musicians Leon and Eva playing piano and violin whilst getting to know each other and cooking sausages on the fire.
Ate a hearty breakfast the next day courtesy of Viktor and Anita's chickens and all set off together towards Znojmo.
Previously, Viktor had recommended a route for us to take which was very pleasant until we reached probably the hardest climb of the trip so far. A few hundred vertical meters of steep gravel and mud later we reached the top and could speed down towards Čížov to see the remains of the Iron Curtain. It was pretty harrowing imagining how things would have been along this border not too long ago with a 2km gap of No man's land between the borders.
Arrived near Znojmo and opted to take the adventurous route down the steep winding footpath and then back up a 20 percent gradient hill into the town. The group wanted to try knedlíky, a sweet czech dish, and after lots of asking we found a place and proceeded to eat a strange meal of steak in soup with lemon, berries, dumplings and squirty cream.
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Found a beautiful spot out of town by a river and watched the clouds as they turned a deep orange before dark. Slept out on the grass together with no slugs!
Today's ride: 395 km (245 miles)
Total: 9,075 km (5,636 miles)
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