May 7, 2025 - Back to Alaska: Forty-five Years Later - CycleBlaze

May 7, 2025

Port McNeill to Port Hardy

I’ve had this date circled on the calendar for some time. It marks a significant achievement (for me): the end of the Vancouver Island portion of the trip and the start of the 18-hour ferry ride to Prince Rupert. I’m sure it will seem like I entered a wormhole and will come out in a completely different universe. 

On my way to Port Hardy, I suddenly thought about how the logging companies in the area build such incredible gravel roads. Many of them parallel the highway which makes sense since so much heavy equipment uses their roads. They would pulverize the asphalt if allowed to use the highway. Because the parallel highways have their own concrete bridges across the creeks and rivers, you can imagine the costs associated with building them.

I knew I was getting close to Port Hardy when I passed the Seven-mile Landfill and Recycling site because it was the first business I encountered between the Ports. I still couldn’t see beyond the green screen. I could see at least a dozen Bald Eagles encircling the landfill, however. 

Just beyond the landfill, another black bear. Again, we stared at each other, I rang my bell, and off into the green screen it went. 

Interesting to note that a nearby wind farm supplies Port Hardy with electricity. It’s been in operation since 2014 and with a capacity of 99 MW, it’s an appropriately sized operation. The blade displayed in the photo is located at the highway intersection between Port Hardy and Bear Cove, the ferry terminal. 

It took some time for the ferry to leave, but at 6 pm we pull out. Finally it’s dark at 9:30 pm. I toss my sleeping bag on the floor of the seating area (along with a dozen or so others who were too cheap to purchase a cabin) and fell fast asleep.  

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Lou JurcikTook a sec. Thought for a moment that you’d found a super cool kind of live-aboard kayak, then realized what I was looking at. Will never forget driving beside o fleet of trucks carrying a slew of windmill wings, one per truck, astonished at the scale of those things and the ethereal beauty of their shape. Felt like petrified mythic sea creatures.
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Somewhere north of Vancouver Island.
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A very isolated lighthouse.
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Today's ride: 32 miles (51 km)
Total: 334 miles (538 km)

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Steve Miller/GrampiesWe were on the ferry the night of the first moon walk. All the cheapos, including ourselves, didn't sleep anyways but listened to the broadcast on someone's radio. Hey, it was a long time ago!
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