May 29, 2025

Destruction Bay to Lake Creek Campground

Because yesterday was the manifestation of “discretion is the better part of valor”, today had to be “Fly like the wind, Bullseye!” The sun was out and there was a 20 MPH sustained tailwind I looked forward to slipping into. After a HUGE breakfast at the motel’s restaurant (“no sourdough bread until Friday when our truck comes in”), I overdressed for the 32º + wind chill and headed north. Five miles in, it was clear I needed to shed the extra layer. Talk about an attitude adjustment! An, uh-hmm, polar opposite day compared to the snow, wet, cold previous day. I had the wind to my back!

Coincidentally, I removed my extra clothing at a demonstration wind turbine site, owned by the Kluane First Nations, on the shore of Kluane Lake. This was the first time I was so close to a turbine and even though it wasn’t one of those ginormous wind farm turbines, it was still impressive. At a time when the U.S. is turning its back on wind power, especially offshore wind, I found it especially reassuring that First Nations folks are taking advantage of green power.

Not far up the road, an unusual collection of stacked rocks and wood sculpture snared my attention. I stopped to look and saw the word “Welcome” engraved into one of the rocks, so I started to explore. This was a memorial for a young Kluane First Nations man who died in a car accident, “Dougie” Twiss. It was such an unusual scene, but I’m very glad I stopped to reflect on this person’s life.

Back on the tailwind tunnel highway, I made exceptionally good time. About 20 miles along, in the distance I squinted my eyes at what I thought could be an animal, but as I got closer it was another bicyclist. Michael, from Köln, Germany, who had stopped to photograph the scene behind me. Because he was southbound, he was also trying to adjust to the reality of biking into a severe headwind. He said he was 54 years old and had completed a previous Alaska bicycle tour in 1999 before continuing to Mexico. His current route included Jasper/Banff, the West Coast Route, then into Central American. I told him I had 10 more days of travel. He chuckled, then said “I have 10 more months.” I practiced my German (”Darf ich ein Foto machen, Bitte?”), but as usual, it would be foolish to speak in anything but English. I wished him luck and made sure he knew hitch-hiking was always an option.

One of the river crossings I was looking forward to was the Donjek River which flows outs of Kluane National Park. The water levels of all the streams and rivers seems low to me, and the Donjek was no exception. However, the wind hitting the massive river bar kicked up huge dust clouds that could be seen for miles. I scanned the river bar, hoping to spot some wildlife, but without binoculars, it was difficult to see anything. The Donjek eventually flows into the White River and then into the Yukon.

The road to Lake Creek Campground was in good shape and I didn’t have to navigate many hills. I pulled into the campground to find four or five other campers, no tents, situated into their chosen sites. I found a nice tent site across the road from Theo and Guin, a retired couple from Surrey. I talked with Theo for quite awhile before getting my tent set up and dinner ready. He immigrated from “Holland” and had been a bicycle racer in his younger years. Minutes after I sat down to start a journal entry, he invited me over for a fireside chat and cup of tea. I love these campground moments when you meet people who are charming and interesting. Plus, Theo, a former cabinet maker, had converted the interior of the Mercedes Benz van into a virtual palace of cabinets and living space. A glimpse into the Mertens-Sahl future? Who knows?

Kluane Lake is an incredibly beautiful place. It’s also hard to meet it on its terms.

If you couldn’t tell, I love these machines.

Michael. the red duffle holds a very light sleeping pad. Most of these international bicyclists wild camp, so comfort is foremost.

Today's ride: 68 miles (109 km)
Total: 1,403 miles (2,258 km)

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