May 21, 2025

Swift River Wild Camp to Teslin

Another chilly morning with Mr. Wind. On the positive side, I could tell that the weather system was starting to break up and I wasn’t worried about rain. I ate, drank a very cold cup of instant coffee, and cleaned my chain. I felt good about the day ahead.

One of the seldom mentioned aspects of the AlCan is the purpose for which it was originally constructed. There are remnants of the original highway, but not many. It has been rebuilt two or three times since the urgent manner in which it was built during World War II. Consequently, historical mile markers show up occasionally and less frequently a war memorial off of the side of the road, dedicated to a fallen soldier. Since Memorial Day is next Monday, I’d like to thank all of our military, current and past, for their efforts to enable folks like me to embark on crazy bicycle rides in different countries without fear.

Bucking the wind was no laughing matter, but the funny thing was I could kind of tell which valley in the mountains in front of me was the source of the wind. I also knew the road would start to veer from SW to NW and that should help the situation. I used that piece of info to keep me motivated until I got to that part of the road. Sure enough, as soon as the road started up a different valley, life became bearable. I was still a ways from Teslin, but at least my efforts would be coordinated with the weather.

Not much to report about this section of highway. I haven’t mentioned traffic much, but suffice to say that there is more traffic on the highway now than there was when Kathy and I drove from Fairbanks to California to Wisconsin in August 1987. A lot more traffic.

Descending another downhill into another town, bridge construction and a gravel apron got my prompt attention, so I slowed way down. Off to my left I could see a portion of the lake still covered in ice. The bridge crossed the Nisutlin Bay Islet which was completely open. Immediately after crossing the metal grate bridge deck, there stood, like the Taj Mahal (to me anyway), the Yukon Motel and Restaurant. They didn’t have any rooms available (due to construction workers), so I found a wonderful grassy site in their campground. All-the-hot-water-you-want showers and a full service restaurant is what the doctor ordered.

Since this is hockey country, tonight the restaurant was filled with Edmonton Oiler fans. They had a small area decorated with posters and blue and orange crepe paper. We are so far from Edmonton! Doesn’t matter when you are Canadian.

That valley was the origin of the headwind from hell.

One of the thousands of tundra ponds along the road.

Memorial for Corporal Max (last name too weathered on plaque).

Today's ride: 66 miles (106 km)
Total: 1,096 miles (1,764 km)

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Lou JurcikYou really have me hooked now, feeling the momentum, the freedom. Thanks for mentioning Memorial Day and spelling out one way that others' sacrifice has played out to be favorable for you. In significant contrast to you, Jenn and I went to The Gorge (at George) for The OUtlaw festival, featuring Lake Street Dive, Billy Strings, Bob Dylan and Willie Nelson. To my shock and chagrin, there wasnt a single mention of Memorial Day though there sure were a lot of flags flying and boots strutting the way boots do. More to say, but this is probably not the place.
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2 weeks ago

Kurt SahlWhat was used to keep Bob and Willie propped up?
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2 weeks ago