May 19, 2025

Blue River Bridge to Big Creek Campground on AlCan Highway

When I started this Alaska bike tour, I looked forward to completing the entire Cassiar Highway. Today my route would take me across the British Columbia-Yukon Territory border and to the Alaska Canada Highway (AlCan) or just the Alaska Highway as most people know it. I expected a different riding experience and was anxious to find out what that would be like.

What I didn’t expect was the caffeine headache 15 miles after leaving the Blue River bridge. I still had 10 miles to go before arriving at the Cassiar and AlCan intersection where Nugget City, a gas station, restaurant, RV & camping property, might help me solve my headache and stove situation. Continually lamenting the lack of a stove only worsened my mental condition. Watson Lake, the only town for hundreds of miles in any direction, was 14 miles east of the intersection and perhaps a store there sold stoves and was open on a holiday? I knew there would be cell service near the intersection, so if a store had a stove, it might result in riding extra miles, but also provide extra-satisfaction. First things first, though. I needed to ride to Nugget City to get coffee and lunch.

Best and only triple grande latte I’ve ever had. Best chili. Best white bread turkey sandwich. Five stars on Google. When I asked if they had a lighter I could buy, I was given one gratis. Things were looking up.

After I ate, I called the only possible store in Watson Lake that might carry a stove. The person who answered the phone said the store carried one of those propane one-burner stoves that uses a tall green Coleman cartridge (and weighs as much as one of my panniers). I politely said thanks, but no thanks. I would figure it out later when I got to tonight’s campground.

Big Creek campground was my first stay at a Yukon government campground. It has a nice covered shelter with picnic tables and a huge wood stove. They also provide free split wood for campfire pits. The pitcher pump for water still hadn’t been installed because of low temperatures. My dinner plan included heating water in the small skillet I carried in my gear and rehydrating a dehydrated dinner. After finding out the lighter I was given at Nugget City didn’t work, I asked my only campground neighbors if they had a lighter. Ralph and Jean from Baltimore were very gracious and gifted me a working lighter. I went back to my campsite, started a fire, and warmed some water for my dinner. All was good in the world again. And then the rain resumed.

Nothing to see but clouds and trees. The burn scar is in the rear-view mirror.

Today's ride: 51 miles (82 km)
Total: 971 miles (1,563 km)

Rate this entry's writing	Heart	4
Comment on this entry	Comment	0